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Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1982 Yquem reached physiological ripeness on 16 September, though rain interrupted harvest that only really commenced on 2 November for just four days. My third encounter with this off-vintage blew me away and frankly, I was not prepared for the quality given the previous showings. Limpid gold in hue, this has a brilliantly-defined bouquet…

Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 1982 Yquem is one of the few impressive Sauternes from a difficult vintage for the appellation. This bottle at the château replicates the showing of the one at Hatched two years earlier. The 1982 has honeysuckle and quince aromas on the nose that is perhaps a tad more floral, but it’s very expressive and…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Cras 1er Cru has a gorgeous bouquet of well-defined, mineral-rich black cherry and wild strawberry fruit, energetic and poised; these are wonderful aromatics. The palate is medium-bodied and silky-smooth with supple tannins and a lush but supremely well-controlled finish. Touches of brine linger on the aftertaste. This is a gorgeous…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Cras 1er Cru has a gorgeous bouquet of well-defined, mineral-rich black cherry and wild strawberry fruit, energetic and poised; these are wonderful aromatics. The palate is medium-bodied and silky-smooth with supple tannins and a lush but supremely well-controlled finish. Touches of brine linger on the aftertaste. This is a gorgeous…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Cras 1er Cru is delineated and focused on the taut, fresh nose, quite linear and classic in style – very classy. The palate is pure, with silky-smooth, very fine tannins, piquant red cherries and strawberry fruit. Generous and fleshy toward the finish, which lingers wonderfully in the mouth. One of…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru, matured with 25% whole bunch and 50% new oak, is cohesive and nuanced on the nose, offering gorgeous black fruit, briar, undergrowth and crushed stone aromas with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte tannins, a fine bead of acidity and superb salinity on the finish. This was the…