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Bordeaux 2020 – The Southwold Tasting (Nov 2024)

The 2020 Pape-Clément Blanc is rather bland on the nose compared to its peers, missing some mineralité and tension. The palate is better with a lightly spiced entry, moderate depth and some attractive pithy notes toward the finish. It's just the aromatics that are at fault here. I’m not certain how representative this bottle is…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Pape Clément Blanc is a very pretty wine, but it has never excited me, as the direction feels unclear. Green apple, tangerine oil and hints of passionfruit open. Overall, though, I find the 2020 lacking in depth.

The Pendulum Swings: 2012 Brunello di Montalcino (Jan 2023)

The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino is stunning, finessed yet full of life, with bright cherry, sandalwood, shavings of cedar and dried Mediterranean herbs. It washes across the palate with a velvety mix of red currant and hints of balsamic spice, taking on a bit of a bitter twang toward the close. Hints of sour citrus…

Brunello di Montalcino: The 2012 Brunellos & 2011 Riservas (Mar 2017)

Luminous red. Intense aromas of red cherry, licorice and tar are complicated by a strong note of torrefaction. Deep dense and suave, with youthfully chewy tannins and a slightly herbal nuance to the dark plum and coffee flavors. Still more notes of torrefaction and coffee emerge with aeration. This brooding, strapping Brunello will require patience.

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good medium-deep ruby-red. Superripe, roasted aromas of black raspberry, chocolate and licorice. Wonderfully dense, sweet and lush, with an early roundness rare for this wine. A monumental St. Estephe with almost confectionery sweetness. Wonderfully horizontal, palate-saturating wine with huge but thoroughly ripe, lush tannins. It’s hard to believe that a wine this rich and deep…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Montrose has much more freshness than the 1983 tasted alongside. With blackberry, boysenberry, wilted iris flower, loam and clove, it’s pretty complex and certainly more complex than the Lafon Rochet. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy, grippy tannins, powerful and burly. Firm tannins, this is serious and lacks a little flair and charm…