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Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Cras 1er Cru has a full-throttle, meaty, slightly savory bouquet where I find the imprimatur of the oak coming across strongly at the moment. Hopefully bottle age will address that. The palate is medium-bodied with smooth rounded tannins that lend this Nuits Saint-Georges a cashmere texture and a quite sumptuous,…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(entirely destemmed): Bright ruby-red. Pungent aromas of blackberry and crushed rock are accented by a violet topnote. Dense, juicy and pure if a bit youthfully folded in on itself. A distinctly rocky, austere style compared to the Suchots, with its dark berry flavors complicated by a note of licorice. Not quite dry but showing no…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru came from barrel on its lees. This has a very perfumed bouquet with brioche and citrus peel scents, just a touch of praline emerging with time. The palate is very well balanced with a fine thread of acidity, though here, I am just seeking a little more weight and umami…

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

The 2012 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze emerges from a parcel planted in 1920, which are the domaine’s oldest vines. Nicely layered in the glass, the 2012 presents sweet black cherries, violets, licorice, mint and spices. This is a relatively delicate, mid-weight Bèze with good near-term appeal, but less of the structure and size that is typical…

Burgundy Focus 1: Duroché’s Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 1988-2020 (Apr 2023)

The 2012 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru has a mineral-driven, tensile bouquet that gains clarity with aeration. There is outstanding focus with vibrant redcurrant and raspberry scents, taut and energetic. The palate is medium-bodied with disarming poise and precision. It’s vibrant and edgy with (again) so much more energy on its effervescent finish. Superb. Drinking…

2015 Barolo…The Bigger Picture (Feb 2019)

The 2014 Barolo Romirasco is the most aromatically refined of the three Barolos I tasted from Aldo Conterno. Sweet floral notes, spice and a sheen of new oak give the Romirasco lovely aromatic lift to play off a core of succulent red cherry and plum fruit. Unctuous and ripe, the Romirasco has quite a bit…