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The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright, deep medium ruby. Exotic, expressive nose offers blueberry, black cherry, violet, bitter chocolate, licorice, smoke and spices, with a subtle leather nuance in the deep background. The tightly coiled, penetrating palate offers uncanny density without weight, with dark berry and floral flavors enlivened by deep minerality. A wine of outstanding clarity, energy and class….

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Beaune Les Bressandes 1er Cru has darker fruit than the Savigny, although I don’t find quite the same level of precision. The palate is a little rustic at the moment, primal with touches of brine towards the finish. It needs to forage a little more finesse and delineation.

1999 and 1998 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2001)

Ruby-red. Roasted berries, flint, mocha and animal fur on the expressive nose. Rich and voluminous but uncompromisingly dry in the mouth, with pure flavors of crystallized dark berries. Dense and deep. Finishes very long, with dusty, tongue-coating tannins and superb persistence. This is impressive.

The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025)

The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Houillères is a level up from the regular Village, with more mineralité and terroir expression. The palate is well balanced and linear in style, with a keen line of acidity, fine weight and a sapid, chamomile-tinged close. Maybe the 2022 had a touch more depth on the finish, but this is…

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

Bright lemon-yellow. Crushed stone and lemon curd on the nose. Rich, fat and sweet, perhaps a bit more obvious than the Caillerets but boasts a superb fine-grained texture to its flavors of ripe pear, white peach, flowers and white pepper. The crushed-stone element recurs on the very long finish. Incidentally, Barnier noted that Chassagne-Montrachet suffered…

Ten Years On: Burgundy 2013 (Oct 2023)

The 2013 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Boudots 1er Cru has a much better, fresher nose than the Volnay Clos de la Barre and Beaune Cras from Jadot this vintage: redcurrant and wild strawberry, crushed stone and light oyster shell scents. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, fresh and tart red fruit and a simple, brisk…