Archives: Product Reviews

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2012 and 2011 White Burgundies (Sep 2013)

(Narvaux): Pale color. Orange peel and gingery spice on the nose. Juicy and dynamic, with ripe acidity contributing to the impression of inner-mouth tension. Finishes full and long but youthfully tight, with a lingering spiciness and firm structure. This may yet merit an even higher rating.

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Cras 1er Cru has quite a heavily reduced nose with a touch of Wellington boot. Don’t worry about that – it just needs time. The palate is medium-bodied with blackberry, raspberry and tobacco scents. I think it should pull through with time. Gritty tannins, a fine bead of acidity, quite…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Cras 1er Cru has a finely detailed, precise bouquet with crushed violets infusing the dark cherry and bilberry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with a sorbet-fresh opening and very well balanced. A little more new oak remains to be subsumed, but there is a lot of freshness on the finely…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Echézeaux Grand Cru offers real intensity on the nose, quite powerful with pure dark cherries, cassis, crushed violet and blood orange. Stylistically, this is not unlike Thomas Collardot’s good friend, Sébastien Cathiard’s in style. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, fine acidity, veins of blood orange and a pinch of sea…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Echézeaux Grand Cru offers real intensity on the nose, quite powerful with pure dark cherries, cassis, crushed violet and blood orange. Stylistically, this is not unlike Thomas Collardot’s good friend, Sébastien Cathiard’s in style. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, fine acidity, veins of blood orange and a pinch of sea…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Clos de La Roche Grand Cru has a delineated, succinct bouquet, the 25% whole bunch seamlessly integrated with blackberry, briar and faint traces of dark chocolate. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins and nice focus, leading to quite a strict, linear finish. I can imagine this requiring cellaring for several years before…