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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru, the famous 2.15-hectare monopole of the domaine, is matured in around 25% new oak, although Guillaume d’Angerville mentioned that he intends to use less new oak in the future. It has a very intense bouquet of raspberry preserve, kirsch, blood orange and sous-bois aromas, all displaying wonderful…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Meursault Clos Richemont 1er Cru is a dense, opulent white built on texture more than anything else. It is one of the most overt wines in the Boillot range. Orange jam, spice, vanillin, lemon confit and baked apple tart infuse the 2022 with tons of textural intensity. This is such a distinctive wine….

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Echézeaux Grand Cru shows a little more stem addition influence than the Les Beaux Monts, scents of truffle, damp autumnal leaves and dark berry fruit. There is fine delineation here although I find the Premier Crus show a little more grace. The palate is medium-bodied with more cohesion than the nose, modest weight,…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Morey-Saint-Denis Village has a brisk and generous bouquet with vibrant red plummy fruit, still with the suggestion of an oyster shell in the background. There is now just a very subtle licorice element. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, well balanced, perhaps less rustic than it showed from barrel with less herbaceousness….

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Morey-Saint-Denis Les Loups 1er Cru contains half Premier Crus (La Riotte and Clos Sorbé) and the other half from younger vines in Clos des Lambrays planted in 2000 that is likely to enter the Grant Vin next year. Including 50% whole bunches, it has an attractive dark berry fruit and subtle briny scents…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos Sorbé 1er Cru has a wonderful bouquet with dark berry fruit, hints of black tea and loam. Fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with a fresh, quite sensual entry. The whole bunches are very well-integrated and not particularly noticeable. It’s pure on the finish and more expressive than its showing from…