Archives: Product Reviews

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A Birthday Dinner at Momofuku Ko, New York (May 2016)

The 1999 Richebourg is simply majestic. In fact, 1999 may be a year in which the Richebourg is just a bit more complex than the La Tâche. Hoisin, smoke, exotic spices and rich, unctuous fruit flesh out in the glass. The 1999 has more than enough fruit to fill out its big, broad frame. It,…

2000 and 1999 Red Burgundies (Mar 2002)

(13% natural alcohol, rare for this domain) Saturated ruby-red. Knockout, utterly noble nose of black plum, blackberry, violet, minerals, earth and flowers, plus an exotic suggestion of blood orange. Full, suave and dense; manages to be utterly silky and precise at the same time. Wonderfully fresh and perfumed in the mouth. Finishes with great mounting…

Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Château d’Yquem at 20 years old: a legend? It certainly received much adulation on release. As a reminder, it was picked over five tries from September 18 to October 23 and has 150g/L of residual sugar. Limpid gold in color, as you would expect, it looks quite youthful for a Sauternes of this…

Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)

Just weeks after tasting the 2001 Château d’Yquem at the estate, another bottle was served at a lunch in London and it was perfection. The aromatics are practically identical and likewise the palate, but this bottle, which had been decanted, displays a scintilla more tension, perhaps more “vibrancy” that so effortlessly counterbalances the richness. Irrespective…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good ruby-red. Knockout nose combines currant, plum, minerals, licorice and graphite. Wonderfully sweet, rich and deep, but with near-perfect balancing acidity to frame the wine’s lush fruit. This superb 2005 has it all. Finishes with noble, sweet tannins and palate-saturating persistence. On my most recent visit, Prats told me he considered 2005 to be superior…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Cos Estournel is a vintage that I had not tasted for several years, made in the temporary winery at the time using a vertical press and peristaltic pumps for the first time. Deep in colour with light bricking on the rim, it has a thoroughly enjoyable nose that has matured a little since…