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Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

The 2002 Salon is in an ideal spot for drinking now. What a wine. The 2002 captures all the natural radiance of this benchmark vintage in its rich, sumptuous personality. All the elements are so well balanced. Apricot, yellow flowers, tropical fruit, menthol and spice are all amplified. It’s a total stunner. Dosage is under…

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

The 2002 Salon is in an ideal spot for drinking now. What a wine. The 2002 captures all the natural radiance of this benchmark vintage in its rich, sumptuous personality. All the elements are so well balanced. Apricot, yellow flowers, tropical fruit, menthol and spice are all amplified. It’s a total stunner. Dosage is under…

Swings and Roundabouts: Chablis 2020/2021 (Sep 2022)

The 2018 Chablis Butteaux 1er Cru has more delineation than the Beauregard, very floral in style with Japanese yuzu and a very light reduction. The palate has a ripe and honeyed opening. Good density, rich like the Beauregard, but I am seeking more delineation on the finish here.

2012 Barolo: Grace Under Pressure (Mar 2016)

Mauro Mascarello’s 2011 Barolo Monprivato is soft, open-knit and surprisingly ready to go today. Dried cherry, anise, crushed flowers, mint and sweet tobacco all find support in a pretty fabric framed by silky, inviting tannins. The 2011 is not a huge Monprivato, but it does offer good balance in a restrained, mid-weight style, even by…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Brilliant golden yellow. Knockout nose combines peach, citrus fruits, white flowers, saffron, honey and stone complicated by very pure lemony botrytis. Extremely deep and concentrated but youthfully closed, showing a powerful floral character to the peach, passion fruit and marzipan flavors. Finishes very long and perfumed; a laser beam of acidity gives this Sauternes exceptional…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Rieussec has a lifted patisserie, almond-scented bouquet, touches of wild peach coming through with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a very unctuous entry, powerful and intense, almost heady in style with a persistent finish that coats the mouth. What a fabulous Sauternes. Tasted blind at the annual 10-Year-On tasting.