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Everyday Piedmont, Part 1 (Sep 2021)

The 2019 Solea is bright and taut, certainly moreso than previous years. Luca Roagna’s drive towards making age-worthy whites has yielded an unusually closed Solea. Readers should plan on cellaring the 2019 for at least a year or two, which may be the very first time I have ever advised cellaring a Piedmont white! Almond,…

Chianti Classico & Neighbors: Looking at the 2020s and 2019s (Jul 2022)

The 2020 Siepi is classy, elegant and super-polished. Inky blue fruit, lavender, new leather, cloves and mocha all meld together effortlessly. There is a sense of precision in the 2020 that is incredibly inviting. Even so, the 2020 is very young and not fully expressing its potential. This just needs time to emerge, but all…

Champagne: 2017 New Releases (Dec 2017)

Roederer’s 2009 Brut Nature is compelling. Powerful, ample and creamy, the 2009 has more than enough natural richness and texture to carry the wine with no dosage. The Brut Nature emerges from vineyards in Cumieres, where the wines are naturally tense, which creates a fascinating push and pull with the ripeness of 2009 and no…

Central Italy’s Best-Kept Secrets (Jun 2020)

The 2018 Cervaro della Sala is a blend of 92% Chardonnay with a splash of Grechetto, showing a rich and alluring bouquet, leading off with a hint of vanilla bean and giving way to peach, a dusting of confectioner’s spice and dried yellow flowers. On the palate, silky textures flesh out across the senses, carrying…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Sociando-Mallet has a well-defined bouquet with blackberry, bilberry, woodland leaves and cedar that gently unfolds with time. There is no sign of any greenness here. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity, classic or traditional Bordeaux from start to finish with fine delineation on the tobacco-tinged finish. Excellent.

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Sociando-Mallet has turned out well. Pliant and supple on the palate, the 2017 has quite a bit of aromatic complexity as well. I would prefer to drink it on the young side given its mid-weight structure. The 2017 is not quite as overt as it was en primeur, but it is impeccably balanced…