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2008 Bordeaux: A Day In A Life (Feb 2018)

The 2008 Batailley is a 22% Merlot, 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot, a late harvest according to Philippe Castéja that finished on 20 October. It has a deep garnet core with little sign of ageing on the rim. The bouquet is fresh and vibrant: blackberry and boysenberry fruit intermixed with…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Weathers the Challenges and Changes (Oct 2021)

Opaque ruby. A hugely perfumed bouquet evokes ripe red/blue fruits, pungent flowers, garrigue, licorice and exotic spices. Stains the palate with deeply concentrated, spice-laced black raspberry, boysenberry, fruitcake and floral pastille flavors underscored by a vein of juicy acidity. Shows superb clarity and floral lift on a strikingly persistent finish that features reverberating florality and…

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

Interestingly, the 2013 Cristal Rosé is more austere than the Blanc. It has plenty of vibrant energy and steeliness but also a touch less generosity today. I suspect the 2013 is going through a period of closure, which I take as a positive sign for its long-term prospects and aging potential—likely to be measured in…

2014 Barolo: Surprise, Surprise… (Feb 2018)

The 2014 Barolo Le Vigne once again shows the wisdom of blending fruit from different sites. If there is a vintage where blending has the potential to be the difference-maker, 2014 is it. So it is hardly surprising to find the 2014 Le Vigne in such great shape. The red cherry jam, mint, cedar and…

Bartolo Mascarello 1955 to…from Magnum (Jul 2023)

The 2016 Barolo (magnum) is obviously a very, very young wine and yet its inclusion in this flight is essential, both for getting a glimpse of the wine at this early stage and also for understanding its place among recent vintages. Supremely elegant and classically austere in bearing, the 2016 is sublime. The vibrancy of…

2016 Barolo: Right Place, Right Time (Feb 2020)

Maria Teresa Mascarello made one of the wines of the vintage in 2016. Her 2016 Barolo is soft and sensual, but also quite hushed – as many wines are in this vintage in the early going. Medium in body with silky tannins and exceptional balance, the 2016 has so much to offer, but it is…