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2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Latour-Martillac Blanc has a fresh and vibrant nose, crisp and citric with hints of lime and orange rind coming through with aeration. The palate is well-balanced with a fine bead of acidity, not quite as complex or mineral-driven as I hoped en primeur, but it has an attractive, praline-tinged finish of modest length….

Maule: The Magic of Old Vines and a Stylistic Reinvention in Chile (Jun 2025)

The 2022 Chardonnay Quebrada Seca hails from Limarí. This fermented and aged for a year in barrel. Deep golden in hue, it offers aromas of baked apple, white fruit, herbs and a subtle reductive note. Concentrated and creamy, this delivers sharp tension and a saline edge with high acidity. It is a singular expression for…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Saint-Romain Perrière is richer on the nose than the Le Jarron, with pineapple, light Anjou pear scents, and an underlying earthy note. The palate is well-balanced, with fine depth and grip matched by a keen line of acidity. Hints of pear once again intermix with citrus peel, just a subtle spiciness entering towards…

South Africa: Where Are We Now? (Sep 2024)

The 2023 Follow the Line is 93% Cinsault and 7% Syrah from dry-farmed 42-year-old vines on a south-facing, wind-exposed, site in Darling on granitic soils. It has an open-knit, well-defined, transparent bouquet with earthy red berry fruit, tea leaf and bay leaf. The palate is medium-bodied and smooth in texture, with lovely wilted rose petals…

New Zealand Whites: The Great Divide (Apr 2023)

Initially, the 2020 Sauvignon Blanc Te Koko is sweet, fruity and round, offering up tinned mandarins and sweet nectarine fruit (5g/L) alongside subtle oak-derived flavors. However, the wine progresses to become taut and sour, a combination of firm acidity, low pH and phenolics, leading to a slightly uncomfortable conclusion. Rather a disappointing Te Koko, after…

New Zealand Whites: The Great Divide (Apr 2023)

The 2020 Chardonnay is firm, concentrated and driven. It has a rich aromatic expression that’s exceedingly young and puppy-like in its exuberance from the toasted hazelnuts of oak to smoky bacon hints and a salty note overlaying nectarine fruit flavors. It is not backward in coming forward but it is pure, lively and purposeful with…