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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Canon just misses a little delineation on the nose, smudged red berry fruit, desiccated orange peel, camphor and fresh figs. The palate is medium-bodied with rounded tannins, a generous dab of white pepper sprinkled over the red fruit, clove and sage towards the balanced and focused finish. Perhaps just compromised by the aromatics…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Grand Puy-Lacoste offers attractive brambly red fruit with pencil shavings and touches of undergrowth. There is plenty of freshness here, more than in other Pauillacs that I have tasted at 20 years of age. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin and pretty red currant and raspberry notes tinged with orange peel and…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Medium red. Black cherry, minerals and graphite on the nose. Lush, full and sweet, with quintessential Pauillac flavors of currant, lead pencil and shoe polish. Has good buffering fat for its substantial tannins.

Léoville-Poyferré 1936-2018 (Sep 2022)

The 1998 Léoville-Poyferré is quintessentially 1998 on the nose with its quasi-Napa like blueberry and blackberry fruit, ostentatious and almost garish compared to other vintages, inkwell and violet scents bursting forth. The palate is rich and succulent, less glossy than it once showed, those tannins perhaps coarser than I remember as the finish has polymerised….

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Red-ruby. Aromatic nose of cassis, cherry, flowers, mint, vanilla and coffee bean. Firm and juicy in the mouth, with a tighter structure than the ’99. Finishes with very firm tannins but also sneaky sweetness. Dourthe prefers the ’99 for its finesse and sweeter tannins; certainly these two vintages could hardly be more different in shape…

Exploring the Tuscan Coast (Sep 2014)

Another dark, intense wine, the 2011 Ornellaia boasts superb depth, richness and power. Here, too, the 2011 has tightened up quite a bit over the last six months. Today, the searing tannins are quite prominent, giving the 2011 an element of gravitas and muscle that argues for cellaring. How long? I am not sure, but…