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Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1999 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a vintage that I have found perplexing in the past, and the last time I was unable to give a score. Returning again, I find the nose a little diluted with light black fruit, a touch of brine and sea salt, but oddly it reminds me of the 2013. The palate…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Medium red. Aromas of black cherry, minerals and graphite. Sweet and harmonious, with impressive vivacity and purity of flavor for ’99. Strong mineral and graphite notes contribute complexity. Not overly fleshy but fresh and sharply delineated, with excellent intensity. A very sophisticated wine, showing well today.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Petrus was made by Jean-Claude Berrouet (his son Olivier was training at Haut-Brion at the time) and harvest was in early September. This has the best aromatics of any Pomerol that I have tasted alongside Lafleur, featuring lovely red berry fruit and black truffle, almost Burgundian in style and beautifully defined. The palate…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Full ruby-red. Cool, brooding aromas of blackberry liqueur, violet, smoke and minerals. Concentrated, densely packed, minerally and precise; brisk acids contribute to the impression of coolness. Firm, youthfully austere finish. Not as lush or open today as the Lafleur, but this is longer on the aftertaste. I’m not sure I would have picked this blind…

The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Glass-staining ruby. Powerful, highly scented aromas of spice-tinged red and blue fruit preserves, pipe tobacco, incense and mocha; a smoky mineral overtone builds as the wine opens up. Alluringly sweet, mineral-laced black raspberry, cherry-vanilla and floral pastille flavors show impressive depth and energy and complementary suggestions of spicecake, candied violet and bitter chocolate. Combines power…

BOND: A Complete Retrospective (Nov 2017)

Another highly expressive wine, the 2007 Melbury is a pure joy to taste. Sweet tobacco, herbs, dried flowers, menthol and licorice add aromatic intrigue. There is a good bit of complexity and raciness in the glass. Even so, the 2007 could use a bit more time for the tannins to soften. I imagine the 2007…