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A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

Winemaker Eric Kohler told me that the 1985 Lafite-Rothschild suffered blockage due to summer heat. This ex-château bottle has a lovely nose with melted dark chocolate, underbrush, cedar and allspice mixed into the mature red fruit, just a tiny bit sauvage. The palate is medium-bodied and quite savoury on the mid-palate, with supple tannins, dried…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Dark ruby-red. Black- and redcurrants and smoke on the nose; less oak-spicy today than the ’96. Silky and harmonious but currently rather withdrawn. Not quite as sweet as the ’96. Here the substantial toothcoating tannins come across as somewhat tougher, but there enough sheer extract for balance. Interestingly, this backward, rather powerful wine suggests the…

Vinous Table: Restaurant La Grande Georgette, Champagne, France (Apr 2025)

I have been fortunate to taste and drink the 2015 La Tâche on multiple occasions, and it has never been anything less than profound. Bright and beautifully focused with tremendous purity of fruit, the 2015 is so dynamic, so compelling. Is it ready to drink? Not for readers who enjoy fully mature Burgundies. But there…

Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

The 1999 Latour has a dark garnet color with little aging on the rim. The nose is closed initially and demands coaxing, eventually revealing blackberry, cedar and light pencil-shaving aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with soft tannins, displaying some secondary notes of clove, white pepper and a distinct earthiness that comes through on the finish….

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Domaine de Chevalier has a more flattering bouquet compared to the 2000, featuring gorgeous, very pure black cherry, blueberry and mint aromas that gain intensity in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with similar tannic structure to the 2000, firm and maybe a little austere, displaying fine grip but, atypically for this estate,…

Vertical Tasting of Domaine de Chevalier Rouge (Apr 2013)

(65% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 5% cabernet franc; 13.2% alcohol): Bright red with an amber rim. Ripe red cherry, coffee, camphor and leather on the nose, plus a hint of game. Supple and drinkable already, showing an animal component to the exotic smoky oak, dark berry and herb flavors. Finishes slightly earthy, with chunky,…