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Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

The 2016 Vintage is terrific. Rich, creamy and super-expressive, the 2016 is an absolute delight. All this fruit is from Roederer’s La Montagne estate, with Pinot Noir very much driving the blend. That comes through in a Champagne of notable textural resonance and breadth that grows with air. Hints of apricot, plum, spice and dried…

Lower Your Sails Again: Beychevelle 1905-2015 (Jan 2025)

This was my first encounter with the 1985 Beychevelle. To be honest, it's not a golden period for this Saint-Julien. It has a strange nose, some Brettanomyces plus the wood component which seems disjointed to what little fruit there is. The palate is quite candied on the entry, a feral Beychevelle with a Rhône-like, slightly…

The Cat’s Whiskers: Bordeaux 1961 (Oct 2019)

The 1961 Montrose is a wine I drank regularly when I was learning about Bordeaux, so I have plenty of experience over the years. It is a great Saint Estèphe, although readers should note that I have found considerable bottle variation with some displaying unwanted Bovril-like aromas. This was a perfectly sound example. Blackberry, graphite,…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, deep red-ruby. Classic St. Estephe aromas of smoky red fruits, minerals, olive and bitter chocolate. Flavors are fully mature, but this powerfully structured wine has elevated acidity and grip of steel. Slightly decadent marzipan sweetness on the back. Classic old-styled claret. Drink now through 2025.

Rioja Looks Back and Ahead (Feb 2019)

(aged for 16 months in large oak vats, followed by three years in French oak barrels) Vivid ruby-red. A highly complex, expansive bouquet evokes ripe red berries, cherry liqueur, pipe tobacco and mocha, with a smoky mineral overtone lending urgency. Sweet, mineral-laced black raspberry, cherry-vanilla and floral pastille flavors show impressive depth and are complemented…

2008 and 2007 Red Burgundies (Mar 2010)

Medium red. Very ripe, perfumed nose shows a liqueur-like cherry quality. Sweet and lush but nicely delineated, with surprising energy to the flavors of red berries, pepper and spices. Finishes long and perfumed, with building tannins and lovely red fruit persistence.