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The A to Z of South Africa (Nov 2023)

The 2021 Porseleinberg is whole bunch fermented and aged for 12 months in foudres. I gave my glass plenty of aeration. Chatting with winemaker Callie Louw, this wine can be closed, this being the first time I had tasted it at the remote Swartland estate. It has a compelling bouquet with fabulous delineation, a mélange…

Growing Up ‘n Getting Wiser: South Africa in 2022 (Sep 2022)

The 2020 Columella is matured for 12 months in regular barriques with 10% new oak and 12 months in foudres. Dark berry fruit, black tea and light tobacco scents, this is finely tuned and focused, just pure class. You cannot ignore the pedigree here. The palate is beautifully balanced with pliant tannins, very sensual and…

2011 Vintage Ports (May 2014)

Deep, saturated dark ruby. Penetrating aromas of black cherry, violet, lavender, licorice, dark tobacco and minerals. Then plush and elegant in the mouth, with outstanding depth and a hint of youthful bitterness to the superconcentrated flavors of black raspberry and spices. The wine’s perfectly integrated acidity and floral lift give the finish great hang time….

Dom Pérignon in Three Acts (Nov 2017)

One of the highlights of the evening, the 1973 Dom Pérignon Œnothèque (Disgorged 2010) is vivid and finely sculpted. There is plenty of nuance, depth and freshness in the glass, but it is the wine’s staying power and overall persistence that stand out most, especially as the evening wears on. In this flight, the 1973…

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

The 2004 Cristal Rosé is also stellar. Here, time in bottle has added textural depth and Pinot Noir resonance, but without detracting from the wine’s essential tension and cut. Crushed rocks, white pepper, kirsch, mint and red plum fruit all race across the palate. I would love to spend all day with this. The 2004…

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2018 Brut Vintage is absolutely delicious, just as it was last year. Floral and citrus notes give the 2018 lovely aromatic lift to play off its mid-weight personality. This is a classy, polished Vintage Champagne marked by notable brightness. Airy, elegant and silky in feel, the 2018 is an absolute delight.