Archives: Product Reviews

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2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

(based on 70% mourvedre) Opaque ruby color. Remarkably complex bouquet of dark berry compote, potpourri, sandalwood, smoked meat and licorice, complemented by a smoky mineral overtone. Broad, palate-coating dark fruit flavors pick up notes of candied flowers and licorice with air and show a pungent Indian spice character. Becomes more floral with air and leaves…

Balloons, Mermaids & Margaux: Château Giscours 1938-2023 (Apr 2025)

The 2019 Giscours has been a little variable from bottle to bottle. This is definitely one of the better ones: more defined and mineral-driven than the ’18, with blackberry, wild strawberry and cedar unfolding on the nose. The oak is neatly integrated. Very poised, the palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, lightly spiced with white…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Good bright ruby-red. Pretty aromas of black cherry, cassis, tobacco leaf, minerals, licorice and violet. Chewy, rich and deep, with good dense mid-palate fruit and excellent concentration. Fuller and sweeter than the Langoa. Finishes long and delineated, with powerful tannic clout and terrific mineral thrust. A serious 2006 for the cellar.

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Deep ruby-purple. Aromas of smoky plum, blackberry syrup, cinnamon and canele (a Bordeaux specialty made from a caramelized batter containing rum and vanilla) are very ripe but not exaggerated, and nicely lifted by floral and mineral topnotes. Very fresh in the mouth, with almost delicate but very deep flavors of dark berries, cedar and minerals….

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Smith Haut-Lafitte has a very perfumed, quite floral bouquet with violets permeating the black and red fruit, hints of game and leather developing with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin. Touches of brown spice filter through the red fruit and towards a fleshy and lightly peppered finish. This is a classy…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Good bright red-ruby. Enticing aromas of blueberry, flowers, graphite and charred, nutty oak, plus a sexy suggestion of floral white fruit. Like liquid silk on entry, then concentrated and lush in the middle, with red plum, tobacco and mineral flavors given definition by lovely harmonious acidity. Utterly seamless wine with suave tannins. Voluminous and intense…