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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a very floral bouquet of lively red berry fruit infused with pressed rose petal and wild heather. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins and a fine bead of acidity. Very elegant and poised, with a harmonious but not deep finish. As is often the case, a very enjoyable…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Bright ruby-red. More brooding on the nose than the Romanée-Saint-Vivant, conveying a medicinal cast to its aromas of dark berries, licorice pastille and violet. Boasts outstanding density and power but this penetrating wine shows a magically light touch and comes across as distinctly airy today. Not fleshy but delivers superb energy and cut. Quite different…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru has a lot of volatility on the nose that masks the terroir. It seems to address that with aeration, albeit remaining feisty. The palate is sweet and candid with “squishy” red fruit that lacks definition, the finish blurred and in want of more freshness. Hard-going on the dense…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru is extremely well defined on the nose of intense blackberry and raspberry fruit, crushed rock and light wilted iris flower. The palate is medium-bodied with a bold structure, a Les Cras with huge dimension and a firm grip at this early stage. Wonderful salinity here, and it fans…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Montrachet Grand Cru (Marquis de Laguiche) is very intense on the nose, featuring subtle licorice scents tucked behind the citrus fruit; this seems to expand with aeration. The palate is beautifully balanced with a playful entry of apricot and quince. It builds beautifully in the mouth, revealing hints of crème brûlée and almond…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Petrus is dazzling. Rich, ample and explosive, the 2005 possesses magnificent density from start to finish. An exotic mélange of cedar, blood orange, spicebox, mint and dried flowers leads into a core of deep, concentrated fruit. All the elements meld together seamlessly in a Petrus that simply has it all. Readers fortunate enough…