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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru came across a little backward and surly on the nose compared the the Vosne-Romanées despite coaxing. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, fine definition, taut and fresh with a well-defined finish. Here, I actually find more in the mouth than on the nose, at least at…

2011 Barolo: The Here and Now (Mar 2015)

The 2011 Barolo Vigna del Gris is quite pretty. Soft, supple and impeccable in the glass, the 2011 is a model of pure sensuality. Sweet red cherry, plum, mint and high-toned spices meld together as this super-expressive Barolo shows off its open, resonant personality. The typically floral Vigna del Gris perfume is present, while the…

Burgundy New Releases: A Bit of Everything… (May 2020)

The 2018 Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Damodes 1er Cru is a powerful, virile wine. Bruising tannins envelop a core of black cherry, plum, dark spice, violet and chocolate. Time in the bottle will help the Damodes soften a bit, but I imagine it will always be rather inward and brooding wine. – Antonio Galloni

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Bright light yellow. Vibrant aromas of lemon, lime, white peach, wild herbs and flowers. Juicy and nicely balanced, showing good freshness from the stony, high-altitude soil. (Jadot’s Bressandes red actually comes from the lower part of the slope.) Not hugely rich but pliant and nicely balanced. Finishes with a salty element and an edge of…

White Burgundy 2009 and 2008 (Sep 2010)

Pale, green-tinged yellow. Perfumed, high-pitched nose melds lime, wild herbs and lavender. Very rich, ripe and sweet; a large-scaled wine with considerable power and compelling ripeness of fruit. Hazelnut and vanilla notes add to its immediate appeal. Colin is convinced that the longer elevage in 2008 resulted in wines that are much less exotic than…

2002 and 2001 Red Burgundies (Mar 2004)

Deep red. Superripe aromas of black raspberry, violet, wild herbs and smoked meat; needs a racking. Sweet, rich and succulent, but a bit youthfully unforthcoming. Less detailed today than the Clos Saint-Denis but larger-scaled. Big, meaty, full and long. This should last longer than the Clos-Saint-Denis, but it does not come across as particularly austere…