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2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 La Dame de Montrose makes for a lovely introduction to the wines of Montrose. There is plenty of the estate’s typical heft and richness in the glass, but the mid-weight pliancy lends an element of suppleness. Smoke, tar, licorice, black cherries and plum flow through to the powerful finish. Far from an easygoing…

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Full, deep red. Very reduced on the nose, hinting at red fruits, flowers and spices. Enters the mouth juicy and floral, then turns a bit youthfully four-square and solid in the middle. There’s nothing over the top about this lively 2012. The tannins are serious but arrive late, spreading out to saturate the mouth. Needs…

2004 and 2003 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2006)

Deep red. Wilder, more earthy and more powerful on the nose than the Mouline, with aromas of bitter cherry, creme de mure, fruity dark chocolate, licorice candy, espresso and pungent violet. Dense and broad on the palate, the cherry compote and blackcurrant flavors complicated by dense, dark tones of coffee, high-octane chocolate and black truffle….

2003 and 2002 Northern Rhone Wines (Jan 2005)

Medium ruby-red. More reticent but wilder aromas of raw currant, black cherry, leather, brown spices and game. Sharply delineated flavors of black cherry, licorice and leather. This is vertical while the 2001 La Mouline is horizontal. A wine of great clarity and thrust, and a brilliant expression of this two-acre parcel. Finishes with captivating brown…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère 1er Cru has a reductive bouquet that, at the moment, occludes the terroir expression and mineralité. But I feel there is a complex and involving wine underneath, and it just needs bottle age. The palate is well-balanced, with a tangy entry and fine acidity. It’s peppery in style…

Cellar Favorite: 2000 Harlan Estate (Aug 2015)

The 2000 Harlan Estate is in a beautiful place today. Soft, open-knit and nicely mellowed by age, the 2000 is absolutely gorgeous, with soft contours to match is engaging personality. Mocha, black cherries, leather and spice are all quite forward in this succulent Harlan Estate. The 2000 might not be a profound Harlan Estate, but…