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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Beaune Aux Coucherias 1er Cru has a pure, quite perfumed bouquet with red cherries and crushed strawberry fruit. The one-third new oak is nicely integrated here. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, dark berry fruit with hints of black olive and balsamic, moderate length, though perhaps a little rustic. Closure: Diam 5

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes comes from vines located adjacent to Grand Crus aged up to 100-years. The Vieilles Vignes matures entirely in new oak, it has a nicely focused bouquet that appears to cope with that new wood, though it just occludes a sense of personality. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin,…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Nuits Saint-Georges Au Chouillet Vieilles Vignes has a perfumed bouquet with potpourri infusing the vivid black cherry and wild strawberry fruit. Good intensity here. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip on the entry, quite floral in style, intriguingly not a million miles away from a cool-climate Syrah in style. But it…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Village comes 75% from Chalumaux that was declassified in the late Seventies (there is a great story about why that happened, but I’ll leave it for another time). It has a delightful bouquet of green apple, white flowers and orange zest that bursts from the glass. The palate is well balanced with…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(14 barrels produced, vs. a normal 21; 15% vendange entier): Healthy dark red. Expressive aromas and flavors of smoky raspberry, plum and spices complicated by musky minerality. Silky, sweet and easygoing, but with nothing overripe about it. Ripe tannins will not get in the way of this plush wine’s early appeal.

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

(the crop here was half of normal, which Frédéric Barnier described as not so bad): Pale, bright yellow-straw. Less spicy and more delicate on the nose than the Saint-Aubin cuvées, offering scents of lemon and flowers. Fresh, shapely and penetrating, even slightly austere in the early going, with its lemon and pear flavors lifted by…