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Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2016 Puligny-Montrachet Hameau de Blagny 1er Cru fulfills the promise it showed from barrel. It has a succinct bouquet, opening with fleeting scents of candied orange peel, lemon thyme and green apples, delivering almost “Leflaive-like” mineralité. The palate is beautifully balanced with real intensity and drive, linear in style, with just a faint fish…

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

Good full ruby-red. Black fruits, spicy oak and a medicinal austerity on the nose. Supple and sweet on entry, then precise and sharply delineated in the middle, with pungent acidity framing the dark berry, mineral and violet flavors. Very tightly wound and linear today but boasts terrific intensity and purity of fruit. This will need…

2003 and 2002 Red Burgundies (Mar 2005)

Medium red. Musky, soil-inflected aromas of minerals, coffee, chocolate, roasted herbs and underbrush. Offers excellent richness and ripeness, not to mention very good volume for the year, but comes across as classically dry. Finishes with excellent spicy length.

2001 and 2000 White Burgundies (Sep 2002)

Steely, pure aromas of apple and lime. Sweet, dense and firm but not hard, with lovely apple and spice flavors and impeccable sugar/acid balance. Very spicy and very long on the aftertaste; firm-edged but not tough or dry.

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Clos St-Jean 1er Cru has a precise bouquet of citrus fruit infused with touches of white flower; hints of apricot emerge with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine bead of acidity, good weight in the mouth and a touch of lime and orange cordial toward the pretty finish. Delicious. 

2019 Burgundy – Further Additions (Oct 2021)

The 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru has the most backward nose of the domaine’s Premier Cru. Les Caillerets demands the most coaxing, opening almost reluctantly with crushed rock, pressed yellow flowers and lemon verbena scents. The palate is taut and linear, very fresh and focused. The propitious terroir really shows though here, with a…