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A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2014 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru, made by Thierry Brouin, has a typically leafy bouquet. There is something autumnal about the aromatics, and some red fruits are extant but certainly moving into their secondary phase. The palate is medium-bodied with an austere, slightly meaty opening. This is not a concentrated Lambrays by any means….

The 2009 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Apr 2012)

The 2009 Clos Vougeot is remarkably polished and fine in this vintage. It may be better than the 2010 given that the heat of the year has tamed the tannins to such a significant degree. Layers of red fruit build to the explosive finish in this huge, powerful Clos Vougeot. The 2009 is rich, round…

2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Bright, deep red. Slightly high-toned aromas of crushed cherry, menthol, flowers and sweet oak. Sappy and savory on the palate, with a restrained sweetness to the dark fruit and licorice flavors and a complicating element of wild potpourri spices. This tactile, masculine Clos-Vougeot shows a lot of medicinal reserve today and should be forgotten for…

Champagne: The Summer Preview (Jul 2015)

The 1995 Cristal (Late Disgorged) is fascinating to taste, as it is quite different in style from the original release. Because of the extra three years or so on the lees, the 1995 Cristal (Late Disgorged) has picked up a reductive note that is not typical of Cristal. Scents of lime, crushed rock, lemon and…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Very strong mousse. Deep, yeasty aromas dominated by toffee, butterscotch and toast. Quite powerful but already harmonious, with real thickness of flavor and oily extract leavened by ripe acidity. Very fresh in the mouth, with very ripe hints of yellow fruits and strawberry complicated by leesy and toasty flavors in the background. A large-scaled, extremely…

Paso Robles: Seductive 2018s and 2019s (Jul 2022)

Bright ruby-red. A complex, spice-accented bouquet displays cherry cola, blackberry, vanilla and lavender scents. Expressive, appealingly sweet red and blue fruit, floral pastille and spicecake flavors are complemented by a suggestion of smoky minerality. Shows fine definition and powerful, spicy lift on a strikingly long, gently tannic finish that strongly echoes the floral and red…