Archives: Product Reviews

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1999 Barolo: Brilliance, Intensity and Class (Aug 2014)

The 1999 Barolo Villero impresses for its intense, bright fruit and overall precision. Sweet red cherries, flowers and pine open up in the glass, followed by expressive floral overtones that add nuance. The 1999 can be enjoyed today, or anytime over the next decade, give or take. This is a terrific showing from the Villero.

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2004)

Medium red, showing a bit less amber than the Santo Stefano. Perfumed aromas of red cherry, flowers and spices. Sweet, spicy and accessible on the front half, but kept firm by solid, nicely integrated acidity. Then juicy, tight and firmly tannic on the back end, but already showing lovely perfume. In this instance, I clearly…

Pump Up The Volume: 2019 Burgundy – Blind (Dec 2023)

The 2019 Corton Les Grandes Lolières Grand Cru has a very perfumed bouquet with ebullient red fruit, sloes, marmalade and light minty scents. It could have toppled over and become a bit overdone, but it actually/thankfully retains composure and precision. The palate is medium-bodied and lightly spiced with sappy red fruit, white pepper and clove,…

Taittinger: Comtes de Champagne 1971— 1998 (Aug 2010)

The 1994 Comtes de Champagne (magnum) shows lovely richness in burnished tones of apricots, spices and flowers. Soft, seamless and opulent, the fruit caresses the palate in a rich, up-front style. This isn’t the most powerful Comtes but it is among the most rewarding vintages to enjoy today and over the next decade.

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Pale but bright color. Very subtle, complex nose combines lime, lemon, orange peel, ginger, wet stone and mint. Very fine, persistent mousse. Expansive and dense on the palate, but quite fresh and dry. Wonderfully complex and subtle. Finishes brisk, strong and very long. Doesn’t have quite the depth of the greatest vintages, but this is…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2011)

Good full red. Ripe, fresh aromas of red raspberry, plum, coffee, mocha, smoke and underbrush. Sweet, lush and rich; shows none of the greenish side of the classico. Finishes with ripe, building tannins and lingering plummy fruit.