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The Pendulum Swings: 2012 Brunello di Montalcino (Jan 2023)

Dark, warming and seductive in the glass, the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva entrances with masses of cherry and plum sauce offset by cloves, hints of blood orange and a dusting of violet candies. Its textures are like crushed velvet, weighty yet refined, with a wave of ripe red and hints of blue fruit that…

Looking Back to Look Forward: Back Vintage Brunello (Jan 2022)

Deep, dark, brooding and incredibly rich, the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva lifts up from the glass. There are depths of rich dark fruits and spices to work through here as it continues to blossom, nuances of candied citrus offsetting leather strap and hints of smoke. It’s silky-smooth and opulent in feel, yet offers bright…

Brunello di Montalcino: Sleek ’13s, Surprising ’12 Riservas (Apr 2018)

Vivid deep red. Musky, deep, mineral-tinged aromas of red cherry, violet and crystallized orange peel. Sweet, lush and packed with red fruit, blood orange nectar and savory underbrush flavors; a step up in sheer size from Costanti’s 2013 Brunello. At once powerful and refined, this seriously saturates the palate with flavor, vibrant minerality and noble tannins. This…

The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Opaque ruby. Primary dark fruit, floral and vanilla aromas are sharpened by a spicy suggestion of cracked pepper and woodsmoke, and licorice notes build in the glass. Juicy and smooth on the palate, offering densely packed, spice-laced bitter cherry, blackberry and fruitcake flavors that firm up slowly with aeration. Shows superb depth as well as…

The Best of Northern Italy (Oct 2009)

The 2006 Merlot Buri is a massive strapping wine imbued with truffles, melted road tar, blackberries, herbs and minerals. An authoritative, muscular wine, the Buri appears to be headed straight for a period of prolonged dormancy, but when it awakens it will be majestic. All three bottles I have tasted so far have been nothing…

Central Tuscany: Maremma, Montepulciano and Beyond (Mar 2019)

The 2016 Baffonero (100% Merlot) is a polished, elegant wine that also avoids some of the excesses of previous years. In 2016, Baffonero is perfumed and light on its feet. All it needs is a bit more persistence through to the finish. Perhaps that will develop with time in bottle. Today, the 2016 impresses for…