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Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru feels a little disjointed on the nose, brambly red fruit, quite earthy, just a touch of reduction here. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins, quite solid and dense, initially hemmed in but it responds positively with aeration and develops some lovely earthy red fruit towards its structured finish. It…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is raised in 25% new oak and is almost entirely made from whole bunches. That stem addition gently guides the aromatics here, imparting a subtle pepperiness and earthiness that combines deftly with the vivid black fruit; perhaps there is less blue fruit here compared to other Bonnes-Mares this vintage. The…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

One of the real highlights on the Left Bank, the 2005 Mouton Rothschild is a dark, potent Pauillac. Black cherry, plum, chocolate, spice and leather all take shape in the glass. The 2005 is a dense, powerful and explosive wine endowed with tremendous energy and pure power. The fruit is just starting to emerge, but…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

($1; 100-$1,400) Full ruby-red. Explosive, superripe aromas of black raspberry, currant, graphite and tobacco leaf. Outsized, opulent and generous; this big boy saturates the entire mouth. There’s an almost exotic character to the plum and cedar flavors. Spreads out impressively on the back end, coating the palate with ripe tannins. The 2006 is at once…

Champagne: The 2023 Spring Preview (May 2023)

The 2012 Brut Millésime Grand Cru is a Champagne of tremendous finesse and nuance, with the Chardonnay really driving the balance today. Chalk, white pepper, mint, sage and dried pear are some of the notes that come alive in the glass. Readers will find a brilliant, finely cut Champagne endowed with tremendous energy, especially for…

2008 Sauternes and Barsacs (May 2010)

Bright light gold. Ripe cling peach, fresh apricot, spices, coconut, minerals and white flowers on the nose, with a note of vanillin oak emerging with air; subdued but wonderfully pure and precise. At once thick and light on its feet, showing an utterly seamless texture and compelling sweetness but also lovely inner-mouth tension thanks to…