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Focus on Tuscany: The 2009s and 2008s (Aug 2011)

The 2008 Tignanello is unquestionably one of the wines of the vintage. The 2008 isn’t a huge or obvious Tignanello, rather it is a wine that impresses for its sublime elegance and precision. Understated layers of fruit caress the palate like cashmere in this impeccable, soft wine. There is not a hard edge to be…

1998 and 1997 White Burgundies (Sep 1999)

Slightly deeper color than the foregoing grand crus. Aroma of white chocolate and pear skin could use a bit more freshness. Dry-edged and rather alcoholic in the mouth; I can’t find the fruit today. This seems rather loosely knit for Montrachet. Nothing like the sample I tasted from barrel last spring. Can this bottle be…

Bordeaux’s Radiant 2015s (Apr 2016)

A wine of class, pedigree and nuance, the 2015 Haut-Batailley is superb. Beams of supporting tannin give the dark purplish flavors striking energy and cut. Graphite, smoke, violet, mint, dark cherry and plum notes continue to open up in the glass. Haut-Batailley is a Pauillac with distinct Saint-Julien leanings, and that is exactly what comes…

Umbria: Peeling Back the Layers (Oct 2024)

The 2022 Cervaro della Sala opens with a seductive bouquet as vanilla bean and crushed almond evolve into a blend of yellow apples, chamomile, mint and cardamom. It floods the palate with silken waves of ripe pit fruits and spices. Tactile mineral tones build tension over a core of brisk acidity. Balanced and refined, the…

Exploring New Releases from Coastal Tuscany (Aug 2023)

The 2021 Orma is a rich, heady wine. Succulent dark red plum, spice, new leather, mocha and menthol are nicely laced together. This sumptuous, flamboyant wine offers tons of immediacy and overall appeal.

Ribera del Duero: A Shifting Frontier for Spanish Wine (Nov 2023)

The 2016 Vivaltus is the first vintage of this 100% Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero, made with the assistance of Bordeaux winemaker Jean-Claude Berrouet, a noteworthy collaboration. Garnet-red in hue. Undergrowth, plum and blueberry hints, wrapped in a cedar frame, complement mint and menthol aromas. The dry, juicy palate shows finely-grained tannins and a polished…