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Growing Up ‘n Getting Wiser: South Africa in 2022 (Sep 2022)

The 2020 Syrah Boekenhoutskloof is the first vintage under 14% alcohol. It utilizes 60% whole bunches with natural ferment in concrete vats and aged for 18 months mainly in Stockinger foudres. It has a cool but focused bouquet that gains intensity with aeration: blackcurrants, bilberry, pressed iris flower and a pinch of Provençal herbs. The…

The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 2 (Sep 2007)

Opaque violet. Seductively perfumed bouquet of red and dark berry liqueur, graphite, Asian spices and incense. This saturates every nook and cranny of the palate with flavors of sweet raspberry, boysenberry, candied licorice, cinnamon and vanilla. Impressively fresh for such flavor impact, thanks to gentle tannins and vibrant finishing minerality. A lingering, subtle strawberry quality…

Germany 2009: Everybody’s Darling (Jan 2011)

(for 375 ml.) Pale golden yellow with a green tinge. Intense aromas of black tea, orange rind and lemon oil. The supple black cherry flavors are braced by the wine’s finely chiseled minerality. Dense yet elegant: this is what Eiswein should be! Very impressive

Joel Payne on Germany 2007 (Jan 2009)

(for 375 ml.) Golden yellow. Pear preserves, honey and a subtle note of smoky botrytis on the nose. Very bright dried apricot fruit and insistent slate set the tone for this rich and creamy wine. Finishes astonishingly long, with sweet herbal spices. With perhaps more brawn than elegance, this beerenauslese is not necessarily better than…

Piemonte: 2009 and 2010 Barbaresco Plus Other New Releases (Oct 2012)

Brovia’s 2008 Barolo Garblet Sue bursts from the glass with a heady array of black fruit, smoke, incense and licorice. The Garblet Sue, from the Bricco Fiasco vineyard in Castiglione, is usually a much more linear, tense Barolo, but in 2008 the wine has gorgeous inner perfume allied to a level of pure juiciness that…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2011)

(from the Bricco Fiasco vineyard in Castigione Falletto): Full deep red. Black raspberry, coffee and smoky minerality on the nose. Sweet in the middle but youthfully closed, hinting at dark fruits, licorice and menthol. Shows a more rustic tannic structure than the Rocche and Villero bottlings today. This youthfully tough Barolo will need at least…