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2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Bright yellow. A distinct step up in complexity and depth from the Roche de Bellene village Meursault, with its peach and hazelnut aromas complicated by spicy, vanillin oak and a floral element. Broad, easygoing and sweet, offering oily stone fruit and spice flavors and considerable early appeal. Has just enough acidity to maintain its balance….

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Saint-Aubin En Montceau 1er Cru has a classy, beautifully-defined bouquet. Minerally malic scents, petrichor and light orange blossom emerge with time. The palate is well-balanced with a supple opening, good extract here, fine cohesion with just the right amount of salinity towards the finish. The persistence here is very impressive and this comes…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Saint-Aubin en Montceau 1er Cru has a more northerly exposure with less limestone but more marn soils, which tend to ripen later than the other cuvées. This feels much more primal and lacks the harmony of Colin’s other cuvées; perhaps it is going through an awkward stage in its barrel maturation. The palate…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Meursault Village has a well-defined bouquet with green apple, granite and light fumé notes. The palate is well-balanced with fine acidity, quite Puligny-like in style with touches of lemongrass and sour lemon towards the finish. Fine.

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Modestly saturated red-ruby. Raspberry, truffle and smoked meat aromas. Sweet, supple and alluring; rather light in structure but long on personality. Smooth and harmonious. It would have been an error to overconcentrate the wine in ’97, pointed out Duboscq, who added that less press wine was included in the final blend.

1996 and 1995 Red Burgundies (Mar 1998)

Dark red-ruby. Closed nose hints at black cherry, licorice and herbs; suggestion of crystallized fruit. Intensely flavored and vibrant but stubbornly backward on the palate; offers cool flavors of cherry and cassis leaf. Very young and quite persistent on the back end. May ultimately merit an even higher score.