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Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Chambolle-Musigny Village has an open and very floral bouquet that doesn’t explode, rather leaps from the glass: maraschino cherries, blueberry and iris flower. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly edgy tannins, quite citric, very fresh with a touch of black pepper on the finish. Plenty of energy is coiled up in this Village…

Swings and Roundabouts: Chablis 2020/2021 (Sep 2022)

The 2021 Chablis Bougros Grand Cru comes from southwest facing parcels (Fèvre almost half the holdings in this Grand Cru) has a very marine-influenced bouquet with touches of granite and a light smoky note. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, nicely focused with a touch of quince complementing the citrus…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2008 Extra Brut N.P.U. Nec Plus Ultra is a brilliant, taut Champagne. The combination of vintage and the extra brut style favored a Paillard that yields a young Champagne that is quite austere. It will be interesting to see if the 2008 fills out with time in bottle. Today it is piercing in its…

Antinori Solaia From Magnum: 1978-2016 (Sep 2020)

This fourth flight brings us into what I consider a real Golden Era for Solaia that started with the 2004. A young, potent wine, the 2006 Solaia out of magnum still needs quite a bit of time. Even so, its towering stature is evident. A rush of blackberry jam, grilled herbs, espresso, licorice and spice…

Focus on the Tuscan Coast (Sep 2010)

(14% alcohol) Good deep purple-tinged ruby. Deeper, fresher aromas of black cherry, blackcurrant and minerals than the riper ’07 shows. Still primary and brooding on the palate, with a refined, lively texture and a floral character that carries through to the aftertaste. The red and black fruit flavors are complicated by hints of forest floor…

Napa Valley: The Frantic 2020s & Stunning 2021s (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon shows good up front fruit, but that fades pretty quickly, ultimately exposing a compact mid-palate and abrupt, drying finish. This is a fine record of the year, but there is no way to get past the significant challenges 2020 posed.