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Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2013)

Bright medium cherry-red. Burgundian red fruits, minerals, rose petal and blood orange on the nose, plus a hint of cotton candy. Pure and penetrating but utterly seamless, showing a plush texture and terrific lift to its flavors of red cherry, raspberry, cranberry, rose petal and minerals. Subtle rather than particularly powerful, but the brilliantly vibrant…

The 2009 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Apr 2012)

The 2009 Clos des Lambrays is ripe, radiant and totally representative of the vintage. Silky tannins frame an expressive core of fruit in this generous, open Clos des Lambrays. The 2009 possesses striking depth and tons of richness allied to a muscular personality. I underestimated the 2009 when I tasted it from barrel. Although very…

Domaine des Lambrays’ Clos des Lambrays 1966-2012 (Apr 2019)

Moderately saturated medium red. Captivating aromas of red raspberry, mocha, pepper and mulch, but without quite the floral high notes of the 2010 bottling; nuances of minerals and red licorice emerged with aeration. Wonderfully silky and sweet in the mouth, even if the wine’s fruit is currently somewhat withdrawn. Finishes classically dry and long, with…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 l’Eglise-Clinet has a generous and high-toned bouquet with menthol-tinged red berry fruit, a hint of cough candy and black olive. This has good complexity and focus, manifesting more elegant and precision with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, touches of mocha and black pepper infusing the red berry fruit, very cohesive…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Good bright ruby. Knockout nose combines crushed raspberry, stone, iron, mint, violet and coffee. Very pure, precise and bright on the palate, with deep dark berry fruit flavors complicated by minerals, flowers and cocoa. The bright acidity extends the flavors nicely on the long finish. Cool and restrained Pomerol, with mounting tannins that call for…

2012 and 2011 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2014)

This wine was still broken out into five different pre-blended components when I visited in November but should be in bottle by now. #1: Intense red fruit and floral qualities, with a bright mineral underpinning. #2: Wilder and spicier, with zesty red fruit and star anise nuances and a touch of smokiness. #3: More dark…