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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru, which includes 100% whole bunch, has a complex bouquet of black fruit, espresso and crushed stone aromas, displaying very good intensity. The focused palate is medium-bodied with very good structure and fine grip. At the moment, the whole bunch influences this Grand Cru, which is slightly bitter on the finish…

Château de la Tour Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 1985-2016 (Jun 2019)

(13.2% alcohol; 18 hectoliters per hectare produced; from vines harvested on September 23): Bright, moderately saturated medium red. Explosive, fruit-dominated aromas of dark berries, cherry, spices, mint, menthol, flowers and minerals. Conveys compelling sappy energy in a silky, medium-bodied package, with its black fruit and herb flavors complicated by a touch of saline minerality. Boasts…

Vinous Lockdown Special (Oct 2020)

The 2016 Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes, Francois Labet’s old-vine cuvée, is dark, dense and powerful. Black cherry, plum, gravel, spice and licorice give the 2016 a real feeling of gravitas. The Vieilles Vignes is an imposing, brooding Burgundy. It comes across as heavy and overextracted. I prefer the straight bottling for its greater aromatic…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru was picked around 23 August. It has a highly perfumed bouquet with rose petals, red cherries, raspberry and incenses, beautifully defined and wonderfully controlled. The palate also conveys a sense of effortlessness that is utterly beguiling. Very harmonious, balletically-poised thanks to its fine bead of acidity, this…

Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)

The 2014 Petrus has a bouquet that storms from the glass with exotic red cherries, blood orange, strawberry tart and cedar scents, only calming down after several minutes. Rich and opulent – although they are not facets of a truly great Petrus to me. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet core of candied red…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Petrus has a slightly more extroverted bouquet compared directly with Lafleur. Crushed strawberry mixes with cranberry, orange rind and light cedar scents. With aeration, there are hints of dark chocolate and wild fennel. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, very cohesive and fresh. I feel that this Petrus has tightened up in…