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2014 Bordeaux: It Ain’t Over Till It’s Over (Apr 2015)

The 2014 Pétrus possesses remarkable density and power, with superb overall depth and an explosive sense of energy that is impossible to miss. Scents of violet, spice and rose petal open up in the glass before the fruit totally takes over. Broad and resonant throughout, Pétrus is one of the bigger, richer wines readers will…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1983 Yquem is one of the standouts from the decade. Winemaker Sandrine Garbay brought a bottle to our London tasting but unfortunately it was obviously corked. Fortunately, a friend opened another that chimed with my previous encounters. This underwent a long harvest thanks to the clement weather from 29 September until 19 November. It…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Les Corton Grand Cru shows a little aging on the rim. The nose is open and expressive, presenting brambly red fruit, desiccated orange peel and rose petal, all quite charming. The palate has a slightly bitter opening, rather rustic for a Grand Cru. Modest in weight, open-knit and very spicy, yet just a…

2010 and 2009 White Burgundies (Sep 2011)

Pale yellow. Tight, slightly metallic nose hints at lemon, lime, green tea, creme brulee and vanillin oak. Very ripe but firm on entry, with penetrating stone fruit and lemon-lime flavors. Then explosive on the back half, with a rising, compellingly tactile and sweet finish that suggests a great future. These vines were picked very late,…

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

(in previous vintages, Denis Mortet had bottled his village parcels of En Motrot, Au Velle, En Champs, Combe du Dessus and En Deree separately) Bright red-ruby. Dark plum, currant, chocolate and smoky, nutty oak on the nose. Supple, moderately ripe and concentrated, with a restrained sweetness and a light peppery quality. Not quite as focused…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has a tightly wound bouquet with lemon thyme, light mint and crushed stone aromas. The oak here is neatly integrated. The palate is well-defined, with edgy, citric tannins, fresh acidity and a little more lime than its peers. However, outstanding transparency and energy were pinned down on the finish, which…