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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has a taut, fresh and delineated bouquet with fine tension, touches of pressed white flower emerging with time in the glass. The palate is beautifully balanced with a fine bead of acidity, quite powerful but showing more complexity and depth than others that I have tasted at other Domaines. Very…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Echézeaux Grand Cru has a vivid, bright bouquet with perfumed, very floral red berry fruit and touches of white flowers filtering through with time in the glass. Quite classic in style. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, slightly tarry black and red fruit, hints of black pepper and graphite towards a complex,…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Capbern Gasqueton is a wine that I never tasted en primeur. It has a very intense bouquet with blackberry, tobacco, dried blood and loamy aromas that vie for attention, all served up with impressive delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, a lovely rondeur here that counterbalances the structure of the vintage….

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a 73/27 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot; 3.75 ph; 14% alcohol) Dark ruby. Perfumed, floral aromas of black cherry, violet and lavender. Enters bright and fruity, with savory black cherry and blackcurrant flavors, then turns increasingly tight and austere on the back, finishing with slightly astringent tannins and persistent, pure black fruit flavors. Though…

Purple Reign: La Conseillante 1966-2015 (May 2018)

The 1993 La Conseillante is a wine that I have tasted twice. The last note for the Pomerol book attests to a Pomerol now rather long in the tooth, a smoke and truffle–tinged nose that is missing vigour. The palate feels rather austere with that tobacco theme continuing on its obstreperous austere finish. Bottles should…

Purple Reign: La Conseillante 1966-2015 (May 2018)

The 1990 La Conseillante is a vintage that I have tasted several times. The most recent bottle was opened at a private dinner in Bordeaux and mirrored previous showings. It has a precocious, slightly blurred bouquet with kirsch and wilted violets scents noted on previous bottles. The palate is full-bodied for a Pomerol, sensual with…