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Champagne: The Summer Preview (Jul 2015)

I must admit, Krug’s 2000 Clos d’Ambonnay remains a mystery. The first bottle I tasted, in March, at Krug, was utterly spectacular. Rich, creamy and ample on the palate, the 2000 was captivating from start to finish. Two thousand is the first vintage made entirely by current Chef de Caves Eric Lebel. My impression at…

Vinous Table: The Dysart at Petersham, Richmond, UK (Sep 2024)

To finish, back on “home turf” with the 1989 Yquem. It is a vintage I have drunk many times in recent years: quince, apricots, honey and saffron burst forth on the nose with brilliant delineation. The palate is a little tauter than in previous bottles, with marmalade and quince to the fore and an energetic,…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 Yquem is such an excellent Sauternes that just never lets you down. It has similar aromatics to the previous bottle a couple of years ago with saffron and quince. A little more marmalade comes through with aeration. There’s real energy and outstanding delineation here. The palate is well-balanced and takes time to meld…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Medium red. Aromas of raspberry and underbrush are complicated by a musky carnal quality and a note of mocha. Offers lovely sweetness and breadth for a 2014 village wine, with brown spices dominating the middle palate. Has the stuffing to buffer its tannins, finishing with very good spicy length.

2007 Bordeaux : Don’t Hate Me Because I’m Overpriced (Jul 2010)

Bright red-ruby. Perfumed aromas of violet, licorice and smoke. Like liquid silk in the mouth, with captivating inner-mouth perfume of berries, smoky oak and flowers. The broad, dusty tannins reach the front teeth. Doesn’t possess the force or dimension of a great vintage but offers the advantage of early sweetness. Not particularly backward today, but…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc: Moving Out of the Shadows (Jun 2017)

(half raised in stainless steel tanks and half raised in barriques) Limpid yellow-gold. Expansive aromas of orange pith, nectarine, iodine, pungent flowers and honey acquire a smoky mineral nuance as the wine opens up. Densely packed and vibrant as well, offering ripe citrus and pit fruit flavors that show a refreshingly bitter edge and a…