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The 2022 Champagne New Releases (May 2022)

The 2008 Comtes de Champagne is every bit as stunning as it has always been. The first signs of aromatic complexity are starting to appear, while there is a bit less of the youthful austerity that was present at the outset. It will be interesting to see how the 2018 continues to develop. It is…

Champagne: 2020 New Releases (Aug 2020)

Taittinger’s 2008 Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne is simply breathtaking. I have tasted it many times over the years in various trial disgorgements and it has never been anything less than compelling. The final, finished wine captures all of that potential. Bright, focused and wonderfully deep, Comtes is a fabulous example of a vintage…

Champagne: The 2023 Spring Preview (May 2023)

Bollinger’s 2008 R.D. is a powerful, vinous Champagne. Apricot, dried pear, tangerine oil, hazelnut, dried flowers, chamomile and brioche all race across the palate. The 2008 boasts notable depth and textural intensity, with a feeling of phenolic, almost tannin-driven grip from the Pinot that propels the finish. At times the R.D. is quite exotic, even…

The 2022 Champagne New Releases (May 2022)

Bollinger’s 2008 R.D. is a powerful, vinous Champagne. Apricot, dried pear, tangerine oil, hazelnut, dried flowers, chamomile and brioche all race across the palate. The 2008 boasts notable depth and textural intensity, with a feeling of phenolic, almost tannin-driven grip from the Pinot that propels the finish. At times the R.D. is quite exotic, even…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Whites – Blind (Aug 2021)

The 2017 Meursault Porusots 1er Cru is taut and focused on the nose, tight at first, but then aeration reveals some lovely walnut and smoky aromas, and good mineralité tucked in just behind. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, quite concentrated and tensile, although it does not quite deliver the…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(45 hectoliters per hectare; aging in 30% new oak): Bright, pale yellow. Tight, lively scents of soft citrus fruits, nectarine and hazelnut plus a note of oak spice. Quite dry and classic on the palate, with its stone fruit and spice flavors supported by a firm mineral spine. No easy sweetness here! I particularly liked…