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Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

The 1989 La Mission Haut-Brion is hands-down the greatest of this era, and if one takes consistency into account, it is slipping past the 1989 Haut-Brion. Deep in color with only faint bricking on the rim, it has a breathtaking bouquet of intense blackberry, black truffle, black olive and incense. It is the precision that…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Medium red with some amber at the rim. Knockout nose combines tobacco, warm stones, minerals, menthol and burning woodsmoke. Wonderfully dense, silky and sweet, but there superb underlying acidity and tannic structure to buttress the wine flesh. Haut-Brion is widely considered to be the wine of the vintage, but in my experience La Mission is…

Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

The 1990 La Mission Haut-Brion was always going to lie in the shadow of the previous vintage, but let’s be clear: this is a magnificent, audacious follow-up. The nose might not be blessed with the Swiss-watch precision of the 1989, yet how can you possibly resist the heart-warming scents of roasted chestnuts and morels that…

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Very good medium color. Subtle, rich, stony aromas of roasted nuts and superripe plums. Velvety and suave on the palate, with an enticing sweetness. There’s plenty of density here, as well as strong backbone. Powerful, very long finish. Though quite youthful, this should be accessible relatively early for La Mission.

Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2009 Baron de Brane has a light, slightly dusty bouquet that needs more fruit to come through. The medium-bodied palate offers dark plum, hoisin and gravelly notes and light tannin. The straightforward, soft finish suggests that this should be consumed in the near future. Tasted at the Brane-Cantenac vertical at the château.

2016 Brunello di Montalcino: Radiance Personified (Nov 2020)

There’s something savory and slightly rustic about the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino that I find quite attractive. Baked black cherries, balsamic spice and hints of animal musk form up to create a beguiling display. The textures are silky-smooth, with cooling acids and salty minerals lifting the expression while giving way to tart red fruits. Tannins…