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Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 La Petite Eglise was picked September 28–29 and raised in 60% new oak. It has a pretty, floral bouquet that is, as usual, a little more expressive than the Grand Vin at this stage. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, taut at first though offering finely tuned, tart red fruit on the…

Cellar Favorite: 2009 & 2010 Cos d’Estournel (Feb 2025)

The 2009 is a Saint-Estèphe lauded in some quarters upon release, anointed with perfect scores, albeit not from myself. From my introduction in barrel with then estate manager, Jean-Guillaume Prats, the 2009 felt over-endowed, a wine predesigned to flutter its lashes during en primeur, one that equated sheer power with quality. I last drank this…

Cellar Favorite: 2009 & 2010 Cos d’Estournel (Feb 2025)

The 2009 is a Saint-Estèphe lauded in some quarters upon release, anointed with perfect scores, albeit not from myself. From my introduction in barrel with then estate manager, Jean-Guillaume Prats, the 2009 felt over-endowed, a wine predesigned to flutter its lashes during en primeur, one that equated sheer power with quality. I last drank this…

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

The 2006 Vintage is a rich, opulent Champagne. Passion fruit, apricot, tangerine peel and spice all show the signs of a warm, radiant year. All the elements are so well balanced. The 2006 is an especially opulent Krug endowed with fabulous balance and tons of class. Warm weather during the summer yielded an extroverted Champagne…

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

The 2006 Vintage is a rich, opulent Champagne. Passion fruit, apricot, tangerine peel and spice all show the signs of a warm, radiant year. All the elements are so well balanced. The 2006 is an especially opulent Krug endowed with fabulous balance and tons of class. Warm weather during the summer yielded an extroverted Champagne…

Vinous Table: Mudan Tempura – Taipei, Taiwan (Feb 2025)

The 1999 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru from de Vogüé doles out pure dark berry fruit commingling with melted tar. Maybe there’s just a touch of TCA? The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, quite robust and missing a bit of grace. Certainly, it would not be my first port of call if seeking Pinoté….