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Brunello di Montalcino 2007 and 2006 Riserva (Jul 2012)

Medium red. Very rich aromas of plum, mocha, dried flowers, underbrush and leather, along with a liqueur-like suggestion of marc de Chateauneuf. Supple, plush and highly concentrated, with superripe fruit flavors slightly leavened by harmonious acidity. A distinctly viscous, fruit-driven wine that could use a bit more class and definition but will please fans of…

Brunello di Montalcino 2007: A Worthy Successor to 2006 (Apr 2012)

The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova saturates the palate with masses of super-ripe dark fruit, tar, licorice and new leather. The Tenuta Nuova is an especially full-bodied, seamless Sangiovese deeply influenced by the Mediterranean climate of this warm site in the south of Montalcino. Layers of fruit build to an effortless, resonant finish laced…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good medium-deep ruby-red. Superripe, roasted aromas of black raspberry, chocolate and licorice. Wonderfully dense, sweet and lush, with an early roundness rare for this wine. A monumental St. Estephe with almost confectionery sweetness. Wonderfully horizontal, palate-saturating wine with huge but thoroughly ripe, lush tannins. It’s hard to believe that a wine this rich and deep…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Montrose has much more freshness than the 1983 tasted alongside. With blackberry, boysenberry, wilted iris flower, loam and clove, it’s pretty complex and certainly more complex than the Lafon Rochet. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy, grippy tannins, powerful and burly. Firm tannins, this is serious and lacks a little flair and charm…

2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

Saturated ruby. Powerful scents of dark berries, cherry preserves, Indian spices and violet. Showing more richness than the Mouline, with chewy, smoky blackberry and mulberry flavors and a string jolt of peppery spice on the back end. Really clings to the palate, finishing with strong notes of candied violet and lush dark berries. This has…

The 2001 Red Burgundies at Age 15 (Apr 2017)

Good full red. Roasted red fruits, dark cherry and truffle on the nose. Boasts a rather wild, concentrated core of red fruits, spices and truffle, along with a faint vegetal element. Finishes with a serious dusting of tannins and building length. Winemaker François Millet described 2001 as a rebel vintage, but a rebel for a…