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Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet 1978-2015 (Jun 2019)

From a vintage with tiny yields that produced just about four barrels of wine, the 2012 Montrachet possesses explosive energy, density and pure power. Readers lucky enough to own the 2012 need to be exceedingly patient, as it is embryonic nowhere near ready to drink. Tasted at the DRC Montrachet charity event in New York.

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Full yellow-gold. Multifaceted, terroir-driven nose and palate combine lemon zest, hay, honey, medicinal herbs and menthol. Thick, rich and deep yet somehow taut, showing terrific sappiness and concentration intensified by a medicinal herb element that reminded me of B&B. Much more about soil character than primary fruit. Finishes with a honeycomb note and yet this…

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

Pale, bright yellow. Alluring high-pitched perfume of lime blossom, white peach, flowers and lavender sea salt. Penetrating, gripping wine with a superb spine of acidity and minerality to its savory flavors of white peach, lemon and crushed stone. Displays a wonderfully light touch and a fine-grained texture but also powerful stony mineral spine for a…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Lafleur-Petrus is elegant, polished and wonderfully refined from start to finish. Everything just falls into place effortlessly. Aromatic, sculpted fruit gives the 2017 its sense of regal beauty and total finesse. Beautifully lifted and precise, it is framed by gentle, silky tannins. Small red berries, mint, blood orange, spice and licorice develop in…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 La Fleur-Pétrus has a very detailed and precise bouquet, retaining the mixture of red and black fruit that it showed out of barrel, developing that faint estuarine/brine scent that lends it personality as it opens in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity, light spiced with…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Meursault Les Narvaux has a straightforward bouquet that does not quite translate the nobility of this, one of the best Village Crus in Meursault. The palate is well balanced but simple, underpinned by a fine bead of acidity but missing some personality and detail, especially on the finish.