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Enigma Variations: Lafleur 1955-2015 (Nov 2018)

This bottle of 1998 Lafleur exudes such mineralité on the nose that it is rendered more distant and less appeasing to the senses than the 1999 Lafleur. However, there is undeniably brilliant delineation with almost flint-like scents filtering through the black sultry fruit. It is certainly less opulently gregarious than bottles tasted within the first…

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Red-ruby. Reticent, somewhat sauvage aromas of briary blue fruits, licorice, mint and earth. Fat and dense, but less ripe and forthcoming than the ’99; in a distinctly tougher style, with intriguing mint and floral nuances from the cabernet franc. Finishes with firm, slightly rustic tannins. Reminiscent of the Lafleurs of old, but without the roasted…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Mouton Rothschild is a potent, tightly wound Pauillac that will need a number of years to come together. Driving in its intensity, with searing tannins, the 2021 comes across as a bit severe today, with less of the charm and sensuality that is such a Mouton signature. That said, I was not thrilled…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Mouton Rothschild marks a return to the classic style of this First Growth after three hot vintages. Unsurprisingly, the Cabernet Sauvignon takes control and expresses cigar smoke and graphite aromas. This is very well defined, yet examining the wine over several minutes, I was searching in vain for that “magic touch” exuded in…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Mouton Rothschild is gorgeous, just as it was en primeur. A wine of stature and vertical build, the 2021 is wonderfully poised from the outset. Beams of tannin add to an impression of explosive lift. Touches of mocha, spice, new leather, cedar and blood orange begin to emerge with a bit of time…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Mouton-Rothschild, matured in 100% new oak for 18 months, has a “serious” Cabernet-driven bouquet, just as it had out of barrel. Graphite-infused black fruit mixes with tobacco and touches of incense, the latter a feature that I did not notice previously. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. Silky smooth in texture, it…