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Cellar Favorite: Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 1991-2019 (Jul 2022)

The 2004 Vin de Constance has a very aromatic bouquet with yellow plum, pressed flowers, a touch of kerosene and a background garrigue scent. The palate is medium-bodied with fine definition, quite spicy with a marmalade-driven finish. It doesn’t quite have the panache of the 1991, but I appreciate its length. A little outclassed in…

Focus on South Africa (Mar 2009)

(for 500 ml.; 130 g/l r.s. with 8.7 grams of acid; aged two years in old French 500-liter casks) Bright gold. Exotic, high-toned aromas of mango, apricot and pungent flowers, all lifted by spearmint and wild herbs. Densely packed but light on its feet, with highly complex flavors of white plum, peach and herbes de…

Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015 (Dec 2023)

The 1999 Cristal is very pretty. It’s a rare Cristal vintage with a bit more Chardonnay than the norm. Apricot, spice, ginger, hazelnut and exotic tropical fruits all open with some aeration. The 1999 shows good depth and density, but it is hard to get past some of the angular contours that remain. Dosage is…

Domaine de la Romanée Conti: A Survey of the 2021s (Mar 2024)

The 2021 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru is laced with hints of kirsch, cedar, orange peel, mint and dried flowers. I find it a bit disjoined today, light and fleeting in feel, its direction more inward than outward. Time in the glass brings out lovely floral and savory aromatics, but the 2021 is not totally put…

Nature Rules/Nature’s Rules: DRC 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru was picked on September 23 and 24 at 21.6hL/ha, which is more than the Echézeaux. Initially, nosing the two aforementioned wines, they seem uncharacteristically neck-and-neck and with similar fruit profiles. Then, it opens with aeration, just eases down on the accelerator pedal, red berry fruit deepening and joined by scents…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru is slightly deeper in colour than the Echézeaux. It is blessed with a stunning nose with white-tipped strawberry, crushed limestone, sea cave and a touch of sous-bois, complex and mercurial, shapeshifting in the glass. The palate is beautifully balanced with a slightly chalky texture, a little confit-like towards its…