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Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 Cheval Blanc has a savory bouquet with red fruit, black truffle shavings, Montecristo cigars and brown spices – very vibrant and focused. There is a tangible sense of energy here. The palate is medium-bodied, with grainy tannins and brown spices infusing the black fruit. Clove and more red fruit surface towards the finish,…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is a total stunner. For the first time I can remember, Les Carmes Haut-Brion marries all of its elements so well that nothing stands out. In the past, the high percentage of Franc and/or the whole clusters were evident. The 2020 is the first modern vintage in which all the…

2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal (Jun 2021)

The 2020 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is dazzling, but it is also a wine of reserve and understatement. I image it will be some years, at the very least, be fore the 2020 is ready to show all it has to offer. Today, it is not particularly expressive. The aromatics, which are usually so penetrating are…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Les Carmes Haut-Brion was picked at 38hl/ha and matured in 80% new oak, 11% foudres and the remainder in clay amphorae. It has an intense bouquet of blackberry and wild strawberry, plus some light torrefactory scents, undergrowth and black pepper, all delineated and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with beautifully defined black fruit…

On the Tuscan Coast: New Releases (Oct 2015)

The 2012 Sassicaia is dark and immediate, with gorgeous up-front richness, density and power. Black cherry jam, cloves and new leather are some of the many signatures that take shape in the glass. The 2012 is an unusually deep, concentrated Sassicaia that is going to need time in bottle to develop the full breadth of…

Tuscany New Releases: Maremma, Montepulciano & More (Apr 2018)

The 2014 Sassicaia is polished and expressive for the year. But it is also quite a bit darker and more concentrated than when it was a young wine. That search for a level of depth in aging that the vintage did not provide on its own also concentrated the tannins, which are a bit out…