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2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Bright, dark red. Fresh, complex nose melds musky raspberry, smoky minerality, brown spices, mocha and underbrush. Lush and fat with fruit; in fact, this is amazingly opulent for 2006 but almost magically weightless. Finishes very long, sweet and perfumed, with substantial fine tannins and notes of game and spice. Very impressive.

Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

The 1998 La Mission Haut-Brion is the standout of the Nineties. It shows more purity and exuberance than the 1996, featuring sumptuous scents of black cherries, black olive, freshly rolled tobacco and hints of gravel, all wonderfully defined and quite precocious. The palate is likewise sweet and ripe, offering pliant tannins and layers of blackberry,…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Good red-ruby. Superripe, expressive nose of plum, redcurrant, roasted stones and spices. Big, rich, plummy and deep; boasts compelling mouthfilling sweetness. Plenty of spine beneath the flesh. Finishes very long and gripping, with sweet tannins for the year.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Latour was in fact the first vintage I ever tasted en primeur at the château. It was an early vintage after budburst on 20 March and the picking began on 20 September until 5 October, the Grand Vin a blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot (compared to around 9% these days), 4%…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Red-ruby. Deep aromas of cassis, licorice and lead pencil. Deeper than Les Forts but currently rather mute in the middle. Strongly minerally. Offers classic Latour structure and spine. Finishes with sneaky, subtle persistence.

2014 Gigondas Charms While 2015 Stuns (Sep 2017)

Dark ruby. Aromas and flavors of ripe red and blue fruits pick up floral and peppery spice nuances as the wine opens up. Smooth and expansive on the palate, showing very good depth as well as energy and spicy back-end lift. The gently gripping, very persistent finish leaves behind hints of candied flowers and licorice.