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2003 and 2002 Northern Rhone Wines (Jan 2005)

Medium ruby-red. More reticent but wilder aromas of raw currant, black cherry, leather, brown spices and game. Sharply delineated flavors of black cherry, licorice and leather. This is vertical while the 2001 La Mouline is horizontal. A wine of great clarity and thrust, and a brilliant expression of this two-acre parcel. Finishes with captivating brown…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Good dark red. Much more reticent on the nose than the glorious Champeaux but already with superb incipient complexity to its aromas of black raspberry, licorice, silex and game. Fat and rich on entry, then quite backward in the middle and not at all in a sweet phase today. In fact, this is much tighter…

The Best New Wines from Spain (Nov 2001)

Medium ruby. Sappy raspberry, game and spices on the nose. A wine of great verve and sweetness; lush and chewy but also urgent and sharply delineated. Bracing acids give this dense wine buns of steel. Wonderful expanding finish features strong but thoroughly ripe tannins. An outstanding vintage for this legendary wine.

The Best New Wines From Spain (Jul 2003)

(bottled in February of 2003) Saturated medium ruby. Supersweet, deep, liqueur-like aromas of black raspberry, violet and minerals; distinctly confectionery ripeness. Silky, dense and thick, with compelling depth of sappy fruit flavors. Powerful, huge but seamless wine with great fruit. Finishes with palate-staining persistence and sweetness of fruit. The best wine I’ve yet tasted from…

Opus One – Past, Present and Future: 1979-2012 (Jun 2013)

A dark, implosive wine, the 2005 Opus One comes across as brooding and very much closed in on itself. Tar, graphite, menthol, licorice and plums inform the powerful, structured finish. This is the most massive, tannic Opus One in recent memory. The blend is 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc…

Vintage Retrospective: 2005 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (May 2016)

Deep, saturated ruby-red. Explosive nose combines currant, plum, dried cranberry and minerals, plus some suggestions of very ripe fruit. Plush, dry and classic; more minerally than fruity in the mouth, with complicating notes of herbs, tobacco leaf and dark chocolate. Not a particularly fleshy style; in fact, this very youthful wine is still a bit…