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2012 & 2013 Napa Valley: Too Close to Call (May 2024)

The 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Volcanic Hill feels quite somber in this tasting. Dark fruit, leather, licorice, scorched earth, tobacco, menthol and dried herbs power through. The 2013 remains very youthful. Readers will have to be patient. This is a huge, dense wine with a strong oak signature. This is the estate’s warmest site. That seems…

Napa Valley Trilogy: 2014, 2015 & 2016 (Dec 2016)

The 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Volcanic Hill presents a stunning interplay of ripe, inky fruit and structure. Dazzling from the first impression, the Volcanic Hill exudes richness, with copious amounts of inky blue/purplish fruit, violet, licorice and graphite. This stunning, captivating Cabernet has the potential to offer truly thrilling drinking for a number of decades. The…

2017 & 2018 Napa Valley In Depth (Jan 2020)

The 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Volcanic Hill is a very good wine, but some of the nuances that make Volcanic Hill so distinctive are presently masked by copious new French oak. Aeration brings out the wine's natural energy and drive, along with a host of savory and mineral notes that add complexity. Cedar, tobacco, mint, dried…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

($1; 500-$2,000) Deep ruby-red. Reticent, brooding aromas of cassis, black plum, graphite and flowers. Then utterly explosive in the mouth, with wonderful sappy complexity of flavor and a thickness of texture that builds and builds toward the back; almost no sign of the new oak here. Offers a near-magical combination of power and refinement, but…

Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

The 2005 Latour is a huge wine predestined for long-term aging. Noticeably deep in color, it has a showstopping bouquet with intense black fruit, graphite and touches of dried blood and tobacco as it considers moving into its secondary phase. But that’s going to be slow coming…it’s in no hurry. The palate is medium-bodied and…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Latour was mind-blowingly profound in two recent tastings for this report. Deep and sensual to the core, the 2005 is utterly captivating. All the elements are so seamlessly put together. Graphite, crème de cassis, licorice, dark spice and lavender infuse the 2005 with so much energy. More than anything else, though, the 2005…