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Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Berliquet has a refined bouquet of lifted dried iris petal scents mingling with blackberry and wild strawberry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins and fleshy red berry fruit laced with tobacco and Chinese five-spice, and very well proportioned and detailed on the finish. Sophisticated. Tasted twice.

Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Guiraud sports a fragrant but not intense nose, featuring the lanolin and apricot notes that I observed previously; touches of grilled walnut surface with time. The lightly spiced palate is very well balanced with a honeyed opening and ginger-infused quince and marmalade flavors. It builds nicely on the finish without fully letting rip….

Focus on Sauternes/Barsac (Jul 2004)

Medium golden yellow color. Knockout nose combines pineapple, yellow plum, marzipan, roasted herbs and resiny oak. Superconcentrated, chewy and stylish, with flavors of honey, pineapple, marzipan, vanilla, toffee and spicy oak framed and intensified by bright acidity. Impressively dense, saline wine with a very firm spine and considerable aging potential.

2004 and 2003 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2006)

Enticing bright yellow-gold color. Subdued but very pure aromas of orange peel, apricot, honey and spices. Supersweet, fat and spicy; wonderfully round, chewy and unctuous. As thick and ’03-like as this is, it remains fresh and lively. Not the last word in complexity but this fine-grained wine is delicious already, and finishes with superb, palate-staining…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a perfumed nose and is rather floral in style. Traces of blue fruit and pressed iris flower combine succinctly with the red fruit. Again, there is wonderful delineation here. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. It’s cohesive and smooth in texture, nothing weighty. The 2021 might lack density…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Les Pagodes de Cos has a lifted and vibrant bouquet with red and black fruit, tobacco and humidor scents, just a hint of desiccated orange peel in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, quite Pauillac in style with pencil lead/graphite notes infusing the black fruit towards the finish that shows…