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Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

The 2008 Cristal Rosé is unquestionably one of the greatest wines longtime Chef de Cave Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon has made at Roederer. Bright saline and chalky notes run through a core of vibrant, red-toned fruit. The 2008 is tightly wound and nervous, yet it also has more than enough depth to keep it from being overly…

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

The 2008 Cristal is just fabulous. Chiseled and nuanced to the core, the 2008 possesses dazzling intensity from start to finish. Crushed rocks, lemon peel, graphite, mint, lime, chalk and white flowers all race across the palate. This is classic Cristal in a cool, late-ripening year.

Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino is a dark stallion of a wine that showcases both the depth and radiance of the vintage. At first, its bouquet is dark and earthy, yet quickly blossoms into an enthralling mix of musky red currants, wild peppery herbs, dusty rose and worn leather. While satiny in feel, it’s also…

Barbaresco 2016 & 2017 – A Tale of Two Vintages (Nov 2019)

Gaja’s 2016 Barbaresco is positively stellar. A wine of poise and grace, the 2016 has so much to offer. Expressive spice and floral notes open up first, but what really stands out is the wine’s nuance and delineation. There is a sense of translucency to the 2016 that is impossible to miss. Sweet red cherry,…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Berliquet opens with an attractive burst of dark red fruit, exotic spice and flowers. There is good freshness and energy, but the rustic quality of the tannin is impossible to escape. Berliquet remains a work in progress. I suspect the vineyard will require quite a bit of attention in the coming years. Tasted…

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Berliquet has a delineated and focused bouquet with attractive blackberry, wild strawberry and violet scents, the new oak is neatly assimilated. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, fine acidity, perhaps without quite the charm of the aromatics, cohesive with a silky smooth finish. Stylish, but it needs more complexity. Tasted blind at…