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2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Palmer is one of the truly epic wines of the year. It’s not the 2018, but it is in that vein, albeit at 13% in alcohol. There’s tremendous richness and sheer extract here. Blackberry jam, chocolate, smoke, licorice, lavender and mocha notes possess remarkable primary intensity, more like a young must than a…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Palmer has a discrete bouquet that demands patience. This does not race out of the blocks, rather it unfurls with subtle graphite scents, blackberry, hints of cassis, plus some of the briny aromas that I noticed on the Alter Ego. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins that frame the cedar and graphite…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 La Petite Eglise is bright and nicely focused, with lovely energy to match its mid-weight personality. Sweet dark cherry, plum, cinnamon, leather, menthol, licorice and pipe tobacco come together in the glass. The 2021 is an easygoing Petite Eglise that will drink well with minimal cellaring. The Petite Eglise is all Merlot this…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 La Petite Eglise was picked September 28–29 and raised in 60% new oak. It has a pretty, floral bouquet that is, as usual, a little more expressive than the Grand Vin at this stage. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, taut at first though offering finely tuned, tart red fruit on the…

Cellar Favorite: 2009 & 2010 Cos d’Estournel (Feb 2025)

The 2009 is a Saint-Estèphe lauded in some quarters upon release, anointed with perfect scores, albeit not from myself. From my introduction in barrel with then estate manager, Jean-Guillaume Prats, the 2009 felt over-endowed, a wine predesigned to flutter its lashes during en primeur, one that equated sheer power with quality. I last drank this…

Cellar Favorite: 2009 & 2010 Cos d’Estournel (Feb 2025)

The 2009 is a Saint-Estèphe lauded in some quarters upon release, anointed with perfect scores, albeit not from myself. From my introduction in barrel with then estate manager, Jean-Guillaume Prats, the 2009 felt over-endowed, a wine predesigned to flutter its lashes during en primeur, one that equated sheer power with quality. I last drank this…