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Pages in the Photo Album: Vieux Château Certan 1928-2013 (Mar 2022)

The 1995 Vieux Château Certan is a very capable wine that is now reaching its peak. The Cabernet Franc has always been the key component, imparting a lovely ferrous, undergrowth note on the nose that neatly counterbalances the intense red and black fruit laced with mint. The palate is ripe and generous with kirsch and…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Medium red. Sweet aromas of redcurrant, plum and smoky oak. Lush and sweet in the mouth, with a softer texture than the ’96. Round and fairly full. Expressive red fruit and sweet oak flavors. The crop was bigger in ’95 than in ’96 but I find this wine equally concentrated. Finishes with thoroughly suave tannins…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru has a slight mustiness on the nose at first, clarifying to a degree with aeration. Light peppermint scents emerge and perhaps slightly detract from its terroir. There’s more yellow fruit here. The palate is well-balanced with a tangy opening, fresh and vibrant. This is a livewire Les Pucelles…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru conveys the imprimatur of the growing season more than Leflaive’s other cuvées, the ripest and perhaps more exotic with candied orange peel, quince and light peppermint scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine acidity, ripe and quite bold in style, though it clams up towards its slightly reductive…

Germany 2001: Golden October? (Nov 2002)

Distilled and fresh red fruits, yeast and herbs in the nose. This seems drier than the Brucke with its stony density and its overlay of sweet green herbs over a complex melange of berries and pit fruits. As it opens in the glass, there is more than meets the nose and tongue at first. There…

2004 and 2003 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2006)

Bright, full yellow. Honey, pineapple and a whiff of menthol on the nose. Then impressively powerful in the mouth but with lovely acidity leavening its concentrated fruit. Very juicy and fine for Suduiraut, and not at all outsized or overly sweet. Comes across as very young, and finishes with noteworthy spine. Quite suave.