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The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Léoville-Barton has an endearing nose with well-defined red berry fruit, cedar, pencil box and light sous-bois aromas that unfold with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fine depth and precision, well-integrated oak and a tensile, quite saline finish that is elegant and persistent. This is a beautiful 2017 that should age…

Vinous Table: La Taverne Alsacienne, Ingersheim, France (Feb 2019)

For once, the best wine of the evening during a dinner in Alsace was not an Alsatian white. It’s hard to argue with the simply magnificent 2006 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf du Pape Rouge, a masterpiece of refinement and precision. Not at all a blockbuster, but rather a paragon of balance and gracefulness, it offers…

Cellar Favorite: 2006 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Sep 2021)

The 2006 Beaucastel shows the textbook character of a mature Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It has expansive raspberry and cherry scents with suggestions of succulent herbs, pungent flowers, cigar box and just a hint of earth. Given the high percentage of Mourvèdre (almost a third of the blend), I would have thought that the earthy aspect would have…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(73% cabernet sauvignon, 17% merlot, and 10% cabernet franc; 13.2% alcohol; 60% new oak) Dark ruby-purple. Aromatic notes of Oriental spices and smoky vanilla add an extra dimension to the ripe red cherry and strawberry scents. Creamy-sweet in the mouth, but with nicely integrated acidity lifting the ripe red berry and red cherry flavors complicated…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Langoa-Barton has a very pure and quite intense bouquet with black cherries, blueberry and star anis aromas that are typically Langoa. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins, impressive body and grip with a liquorice-tinged, saline finish that maybe just lacks a little flesh and needs more on the aftertaste. Tasted from an…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright ruby. Sweet, high-pitched aromas of cassis and leather lifted by flowers. Ripe, chewy flavors of red fruits, spices, flowers and leather struck me as a bit Burgundian. Lovely depth and sweetness for this bottling. A big success in 2010, tactile and inviting from the start but with the stuffing and energy for mid-term aging.