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The Best New Releases From Australia (Jul 1998)

Deep ruby, slightly less saturated than the Kangarilla but still opaque. High-toned aromas of crushed blackberry, cassis and violet; bordering on volatile. Hugely sweet in the mouth, with an amazingly creamy old-vines texture; strong acidity almost miraculously keeps the fruit vibrant. Finishes with powerful, chewy tannins. This outsized wine, which reminded me of a Turley…

Léoville-Poyferré 1936-2018 (Sep 2022)

The 1978 Léoville-Poyferré was the last vintage before the arrival of Didier Cuvelier. The nose is fully mature with tobacco and pine cone scents, a little diffuse but not terrible. The palate is dry on the entry, though there is less VA than other mature vintages of this Saint-Julien. The austere finish suggests bottles should…

Léoville-Poyferré 1936-2018 (Sep 2022)

The 1978 Léoville-Poyferré was the last vintage before the arrival of Didier Cuvelier. The nose is fully mature with tobacco and pine cone scents, a little diffuse but not terrible. The palate is dry on the entry, though there is less VA than other mature vintages of this Saint-Julien. The austere finish suggests bottles should…

2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

(L09072; a blend of Greffieux and Bessards; white capsule) Bright purple. Powerful aromas of kirsch and dark berries are complemented by notes of cola and black tea. Rich, palate-coating dark berry flavors are brightened by dusty minerals and become more floral with air. Quite rich but a touch backward today, finishing with a whiplash of…

2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

(L09223; a blend of Bessards and Meal; bottled with a red capsule) Vivid ruby. Sexy, penetrating aromas of raspberry, candied cherry, incense and anise. Lively red fruit flavors are given spine by tangy minerality and show a suave note of candied flowers on the back half. The finish is spicy, nervy and extremely persistent. Faurie…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Berliquet is quite attractive. Succulent dark cherries, menthol, licorice and new leather are all pushed forward. The 2012 is open-knit and generous, with good up-front appeal, and enough underlying structure to drink well for at least a decade, perhaps longer. Beams of supporting tannin shape the expressive finish. Another year or two in…