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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(an 80/20 blend of merlot and cabernet franc; 13.9% alcohol; pH 3.68; IPT 73; 30% new oak) Medium-deep ruby. Initially closed but deep nose opens slowly to reveal black cherry, blackberry jam, coffee and minerals. Dense and tactile, but with harmonious acids keeping the ripe black fruit flavors light and buoyant on the palate. Though…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Nénin has a high-toned bouquet with cassis, liquorice and cough candy aromas, attractive in a way although, not enough Pomerol for my liking. The palate is medium-bodied with a very sweet core of fruit, cassis and blueberry, low in acidity with a sumptuous and rounded finish. I appreciate the smooth texture but, I…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

(the label says 14.5% alcohol): Bright, full red-ruby. Musky dark berries, black cherry and underbrush on the fresh nose, complicated by a smoky minerality. Lush, smooth and minerally, with lively flavors of plum, chocolate and smoke; nothing heavy about this Pomerol. Finishes with ripe tannins and very good length. This tightened up with air, showing…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 La Tour Blanche is well endowed on the nose with scents of acacia honey, yellow plum and orange rind, just a touch of saffron emerging with time (a leitmotif of this vintage.) The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. This feels spicier than its peers, finely tuned towards the…

Bordeaux 2010: The Sweet Wines (Aug 2011)

Bright, pale yellow-gold. Exotic aromas of apricot, kiwi and minerals, complicated by smoky botrytis. Very clean and focused in the mouth, with pure, penetrating orange marmalade and ripe citrus flavors lifted by minerals and saffron. Refined and elegant in its mouth feel and very long on the aftertaste. Extremely well done.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Brane-Cantenac has a clean and fresh bouquet, more mineral-driven than its peers, vivid and bright with beautifully integrated oak. The palate is medium-bodied with a savoury entry, quite irony in style and more linear than the aromatics suggest. There is just a touch of dryness towards the finish that makes me question whether…