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The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Lynch-Bages is quite savoury on the nose with dried blood and meat juices intermixed with the black fruit. The palate is ripe and rounded on the entry, quite dense and muscular for a Pauillac, grippy towards the finish where I am seeking more elegance and precision. Not bad, though not the best wine…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Good bright ruby. Dark aromas of cassis, licorice, violet and vanilla. Penetrating and well-delineated, showing a light touch to its intense if slightly lean dark fruit and spice flavors. Finishes with very good grip and length, but a bit tart for me. A wine of very good but not outstanding concentration.

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 2011 Lynch-Bages has a well-defined nose with tightly-wound black fruit laced with mint and graphite. This certainly needs time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, fleshy tannins. It’s open and generous with black cherries, wild strawberries and touches of orange rind. There’s good substance, and it’s fleshy on the finish. The…

Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2009 La Romanée Grand Cru puts in a curious showing. Paler in hue, I wonder whether there is any stem addition in the wine. Indeed, the nose is lighter than expected, with red cherries, strawberries, loam and espresso. Fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with commendable sharpness on the entry. Lightly spiced with a…

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair: La Romanée 1865 – 2014 (Mar 2016)

The 2009 La Romanée is warm, radiant and seductive, with all of the charm that is so typical of the year. Sweet red cherry, rose petal, plum, leather and spice take on bold shades of expression. The 2009 is a bit hard to taste in this context, as all the other wines served alongside it…

2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Good full medium red. Knockout, soil-driven nose combines black raspberry, flint, coffee and smoky minerality. Like liquid silk in the mouth but with superb energy for the vintage. In its creamy sweetness, firm structure and tight but fine-grained texture this reminded me of a platonic 2007 Barolo. The rising, palate-staining finish features noble tannins and…