Archives: Product Reviews

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2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Fresh ruby-red color. Black raspberry, mocha, smoky spices and earth on the rather discreet nose. Sweet but high-pitched, communicating an impression of more youthful fruit than the Echezeaux. This boasts terrific lift and aromatic intensity in the mouth but is quite backward today. Finishes extremely long, with nicely integrated tannins and excellent verve. I love…

Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2005 Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru is a wine I have not encountered since just after bottling. It has a fabulous bouquet, so pure and complex, its mineralité riveting you to the spot. Crystalline. The palate has a divine balance with immense poise, which is uncommon in this muscular vintage. The tannins seem to have melted…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Phélan-Ségur has a more generous and slightly more exotic bouquet than its peers with plush red cherry, redcurrant, soy and forest floor aromas that soar from the glass. Thankfully it maintains ample freshness and focus. The palate is medium-bodied with gentle grip, quite firm and slightly chalky tannin with unerring symmetry and tension…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Medium bright red-ruby. Wild, musky aromas of black raspberry, smoky oak and crushed rock. Broad, silky, dry and laid-back, with a subtle sweetness to its complex flavors of dark berries, licorice, herbs and black olive. Finishes ripe and smooth, with big, fine-grained tannins and excellent breadth and length. An excellent vintage for this chateau.

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Deep ruby-red. Pretty redcurrant and strawberry aromas are complicated by a touch of dried herbs. Enters silky-smooth, with a delicate peppery quality nicely lifting the ripe red berry and cherry flavors. Finishes moderately long and clean, with a faint tart edge. I found myself wishing for a little more complexity, but this charming midweight is…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Phélan-Ségur has a more generous and slightly more exotic bouquet than its peers with plush red cherry, redcurrant, soy and forest floor aromas that soar from the glass. Thankfully it maintains ample freshness and focus. The palate is medium-bodied with gentle grip, quite firm and slightly chalky tannin with unerring symmetry and tension…