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Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has a bright and youthful nose. Fine delineation with exuberant dark berry fruit, this still needs more bottle age to subsume the oak. Wonderful redcurrant, cranberry notes develop, with orange blossom hints. The palate is medium-bodied with finely-chiseled tannins and exquisite balance, yet it clams up toward the…

Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has a bright and youthful nose. Fine delineation with exuberant dark berry fruit, this still needs more bottle age to subsume the oak. Wonderful redcurrant, cranberry notes develop, with orange blossom hints. The palate is medium-bodied with finely-chiseled tannins and exquisite balance, yet it clams up toward the…

The Wine Was Chambertin: Rousseau 1919-2017 (Jun 2022)

The 2017 Chambertin Grand Cru is just a glorious success. Vivid red fruit, Morello cherries, wild strawberry and pressed violets on the nose, the aromatics here feel so animated and exquisitely defined. The palate is perfectly balanced with a killer line of acidity: crystalline red fruit, filigree tannins and more freshness than it knows what…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Medium red. Spicy red berries, eucalyptus and camphor on the nose, plus a whiff of old barrel. Then supple and fat, with modest nuance but more ripeness and sweetness than the nose suggests. Finishes with nicely ripe tannins and good persistence.

Vinous Table: Medlar, London, UK (Jun 2022)

The 2016 L’Hermitage came from another magnum. This strides authoritatively into the room wanting to make a big impression with its penetrating scents of maraschino cherries, blueberry and cassis on the nose, bunches of violet intermingling with olive tapenade. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins and spine-tingling acidity. Yes, it is way too young…

Northern Rhône: 2016 and 2017 Reds (Sep 2019)

Inky ruby. Highly precise, mineral-accented black/blue fruit, exotic spice, olive paste and incense aromas pick up hints of smokiness and candied licorice as the wine opens up. Seamless and penetrating on the palate, offering urgent blueberry, cherry preserve, spicecake and floral pastille flavors and a strong jolt of smoky minerality. Deepens steadily on the strikingly…