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Vinous Table: Emilia, Bangkok, Thailand (May 2024)

The 1959 Château Margaux is a splendid wine even if it lags behind its First Growth peers. This example possesses a touch more fruit on the nose than previous ones, redcurrant and strawberry, wilted rose petals and hints of Provençal herbs unfurling in the glass, though there are no fireworks. The palate is very well…

Vinous Table: Emilia, Bangkok, Thailand (May 2024)

The 1959 Château Margaux is a splendid wine even if it lags behind its First Growth peers. This example possesses a touch more fruit on the nose than previous ones, redcurrant and strawberry, wilted rose petals and hints of Provençal herbs unfurling in the glass, though there are no fireworks. The palate is very well…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1966 Ducru-Beaucaillou has a mushroom, briny nose that is too herbal for my liking, lacking the panache of say, the 1966 Latour or 1966 Château Margaux (the latter tasted by chance just a couple of days before this.) The palate is medium-bodied with solid tannins, a little foursquare, serious and lacking a bit of…

Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Exotic aromas of truffle, game, dried fruits and tobacco; strong impression of botrytis. Powerful on entry, then very sweet (74 grams/liter r.s.) and very concentrated, with an amazingly glyceral texture. Powerful and very deep. Still some sulfur to be absorbed. One of the richest wines of this group, really thick with extract. Finishes firm, youthful…

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Good deep red. Red fruits, dried rose, graphite and spicy oak on the nose. Wonderfully fine-grained, seamless and sweet, combining outstanding fullness with an uncanny weightlessness. Extremely fine-grained and subtle, with some apparent oak spice in the middle palate. Best today on the explosive, broad aftertaste, which saturates the palate with perfume and leaves the…

Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva seduces the senses as it mixes savory and sweet, the dusty rose and crushed stone aromas giving way to wild strawberry and dried cherry. A velvety textural wave saturates the palate with salty minerals and tart raspberry fruits, lifted by stunning acidity and cooling herbal tones that create a…