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Ten Years On: Burgundy 2013 (Oct 2023)

The 2013 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru, which former winemaker Thierry Brouin made, has a well-defined bouquet with dark berry fruit, brine, undergrowth and kelp aromas. The palate is rustic but engaging. Raspberry pastilles, orange rind and tertiary notes appear toward the slightly attenuated finish, not long, but you cannot deny that it is charming….

2010 and 2009 Southern Rhone Wines (Jan 2012)

(30% each of grenache and mourvedre and 10% each of counoise and syrah, with the balance spread across the other nine permitted varieties): Bright ruby. Perfumed, expressive aromas of red and dark berry preserves, smoky herbs and lavender, with a touch of licorice adding depth. Fleshy and supple in texture, offering intense black raspberry and…

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

Tasting the 1990 Léoville Las Cases just a few days after the 1989, it is clear which is the best vintage…this one. It has a sublime nose of melted black fruit, tar, cedar and bay leaf that shrugs off the heat of that summer better than most others. At 33 years of age, you could…

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

The 2016 Vintage is terrific. Rich, creamy and super-expressive, the 2016 is an absolute delight. All this fruit is from Roederer’s La Montagne estate, with Pinot Noir very much driving the blend. That comes through in a Champagne of notable textural resonance and breadth that grows with air. Hints of apricot, plum, spice and dried…

Lower Your Sails Again: Beychevelle 1905-2015 (Jan 2025)

This was my first encounter with the 1985 Beychevelle. To be honest, it's not a golden period for this Saint-Julien. It has a strange nose, some Brettanomyces plus the wood component which seems disjointed to what little fruit there is. The palate is quite candied on the entry, a feral Beychevelle with a Rhône-like, slightly…

The Cat’s Whiskers: Bordeaux 1961 (Oct 2019)

The 1961 Montrose is a wine I drank regularly when I was learning about Bordeaux, so I have plenty of experience over the years. It is a great Saint Estèphe, although readers should note that I have found considerable bottle variation with some displaying unwanted Bovril-like aromas. This was a perfectly sound example. Blackberry, graphite,…