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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Canon La Gaffelière is bright, punchy and full of character, just as it was from barrel. Sage, blood orange, mocha and spice add pretty aromatic top notes to a core of inky red/purplish berry fruit. All the elements are so well balanced in this super-expressive Saint-Émilion. Bright floral and savory Franc notes punctuate…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Canon-la-Gaffelière has an irresistible bouquet of blackberry, raspberry and touches of lavender that blossoms as soon as it opens, though it reaches its zenith only after 4–5 hours. The palate is medium-bodied with red and black fruit, a little grainier in texture than it showed from barrel, yet still spicy toward the finish….

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a terse, stoic, delineated bouquet with scents of wet limestone and sea spray, just a slight menthol note developing with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. A very pretty, elegant Bienvenue that reveals hints of blood orange and sour lemon on the precise,…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a touch more pungency compared to the Bienvenue, but perhaps not quite the same alluring charm, at least at this primordial stage. The palate is where it’s at: supremely well balanced, exuding a sense of coiled-up energy countered by a dense, persistent finish. A bit of a beast, but…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(the 2017 premier crus are aging in about 20% new oak): Aromas of peach, vanilla and spicy oak are lifted by stony energy. Precise and clean, showing lovely density without any impression of weight. A strong peach flavor is accented by a touch of minerality on the subtly long back end.

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

The most aromatically expressive of these wines to this point, with peach and floral notes suggesting riper fruit than the Clavoillon. Juicy and nicely delineated in the mouth, with an element of rocky minerality giving the stone fruit flavors a complementary saline quality. Finishes with excellent rising length.